View Poll Results: Is it worth doing the B20 bottom with B16a2 head??
Yes
12
85.71%
No
2
14.29%
Voters: 14. You may not vote on this poll
b16 head with b20 bottom..
#1
b16 head with b20 bottom..
I am lookin into doing this with the price of b20 being so cheap nowadays..
just curious on what kind of power people have made...any complications to doin this..and the pro's and cons..
I have heard its a direct swap..
thanks
Christof
just curious on what kind of power people have made...any complications to doin this..and the pro's and cons..
I have heard its a direct swap..
thanks
Christof
#2
There is some machining involved. You need to drill a hole in the block to feed oil for the vtec, and I believe you also need to ad a dowel hole in the block for the head o align propely. Personally, I like this swap, you can make a decent amount of power with it.
#4
you do NOT need to drill a hole in the block for the oil feed.
All you do is get a "tee" and tee the stock oil pressure sending unit off the back of the block, then run a line from the tee to the head for the vtec oil feed line. Or get a sandwhich adapter plate and use of its outputs and run a line from it to the head.
You need the block the original vtec oil feed hole on the bottom of the head with a little plug.
You need to increase the size of the dowel pins in the head so you can use the B20 dowel pins, OR buy the $15 ls/vtec conversion dowel pins that are smaller on the top and larger on the bottom to fit both the ls/b20 block and b16 head without any machining.
This is why i recommend the Golden Eagle ls/b20vtec conversion kit, it includes a new OEM headgasket (whatever size you need, depending on whether you do a lsvtec or b20vtec), the conversion dowel pins, a sandwhich adapter plate, vtec oil feed line, all of the necessary fittings, the right sized plug for the vtec oil feed hole in the head, and even the tap you'll need to tap the hole so you can fit the plug it in. You can even get kits that include ARP head studs or you can get a set of the Golden Eagle or AEBS head studs, but i highly recommend using head studs over the stock head bolts.
B20vtecs are one of my favourite engine combinations to build/tune, they always make good power, and if you don't skimp out on anything and tune it, it'll last just as long as any other engine you could put in your car.
All you do is get a "tee" and tee the stock oil pressure sending unit off the back of the block, then run a line from the tee to the head for the vtec oil feed line. Or get a sandwhich adapter plate and use of its outputs and run a line from it to the head.
You need the block the original vtec oil feed hole on the bottom of the head with a little plug.
You need to increase the size of the dowel pins in the head so you can use the B20 dowel pins, OR buy the $15 ls/vtec conversion dowel pins that are smaller on the top and larger on the bottom to fit both the ls/b20 block and b16 head without any machining.
This is why i recommend the Golden Eagle ls/b20vtec conversion kit, it includes a new OEM headgasket (whatever size you need, depending on whether you do a lsvtec or b20vtec), the conversion dowel pins, a sandwhich adapter plate, vtec oil feed line, all of the necessary fittings, the right sized plug for the vtec oil feed hole in the head, and even the tap you'll need to tap the hole so you can fit the plug it in. You can even get kits that include ARP head studs or you can get a set of the Golden Eagle or AEBS head studs, but i highly recommend using head studs over the stock head bolts.
B20vtecs are one of my favourite engine combinations to build/tune, they always make good power, and if you don't skimp out on anything and tune it, it'll last just as long as any other engine you could put in your car.
#5
This is why there is so much mis-information everywhere. If you don't know what you're talking about, don't post.
Do as andrew said. You dont even need any machine work. Personally with my b20vtec, I bore out the dowel pin openings in the head (there are only two i believe) to accept the larger pins that the b20s use. Or you can just buy the conversion pins and you don't need to do any machine work at all.
Do as andrew said. You dont even need any machine work. Personally with my b20vtec, I bore out the dowel pin openings in the head (there are only two i believe) to accept the larger pins that the b20s use. Or you can just buy the conversion pins and you don't need to do any machine work at all.
#6
you do NOT need to drill a hole in the block for the oil feed.
All you do is get a "tee" and tee the stock oil pressure sending unit off the back of the block, then run a line from the tee to the head for the vtec oil feed line. Or get a sandwhich adapter plate and use of its outputs and run a line from it to the head.
You need the block the original vtec oil feed hole on the bottom of the head with a little plug.
You need to increase the size of the dowel pins in the head so you can use the B20 dowel pins, OR buy the $15 ls/vtec conversion dowel pins that are smaller on the top and larger on the bottom to fit both the ls/b20 block and b16 head without any machining.
This is why i recommend the Golden Eagle ls/b20vtec conversion kit, it includes a new OEM headgasket (whatever size you need, depending on whether you do a lsvtec or b20vtec), the conversion dowel pins, a sandwhich adapter plate, vtec oil feed line, all of the necessary fittings, the right sized plug for the vtec oil feed hole in the head, and even the tap you'll need to tap the hole so you can fit the plug it in. You can even get kits that include ARP head studs or you can get a set of the Golden Eagle or AEBS head studs, but i highly recommend using head studs over the stock head bolts.
B20vtecs are one of my favourite engine combinations to build/tune, they always make good power, and if you don't skimp out on anything and tune it, it'll last just as long as any other engine you could put in your car.
All you do is get a "tee" and tee the stock oil pressure sending unit off the back of the block, then run a line from the tee to the head for the vtec oil feed line. Or get a sandwhich adapter plate and use of its outputs and run a line from it to the head.
You need the block the original vtec oil feed hole on the bottom of the head with a little plug.
You need to increase the size of the dowel pins in the head so you can use the B20 dowel pins, OR buy the $15 ls/vtec conversion dowel pins that are smaller on the top and larger on the bottom to fit both the ls/b20 block and b16 head without any machining.
This is why i recommend the Golden Eagle ls/b20vtec conversion kit, it includes a new OEM headgasket (whatever size you need, depending on whether you do a lsvtec or b20vtec), the conversion dowel pins, a sandwhich adapter plate, vtec oil feed line, all of the necessary fittings, the right sized plug for the vtec oil feed hole in the head, and even the tap you'll need to tap the hole so you can fit the plug it in. You can even get kits that include ARP head studs or you can get a set of the Golden Eagle or AEBS head studs, but i highly recommend using head studs over the stock head bolts.
B20vtecs are one of my favourite engine combinations to build/tune, they always make good power, and if you don't skimp out on anything and tune it, it'll last just as long as any other engine you could put in your car.
#9
that still sounds like a lot of work. Is there a shop that does the whole thing for you or is it better to get the pieces together your self and then pass it off to a shop. Andrew where did you get yours done? Any problems with it? What are your revs like? Do you have a dyno chart that you can show? Well i am very interested now. i was going to turbo but now that i know its so easy to do it. I am just wondering what the price is for the whole job.
#10
i don't have a b20vtec in my car, i've got a boosted b16.
But i've done plenty of b20vtecs, its easy if you've got all of the right parts.
Its up to you whether you want to gather all of the parts, then take it to the shop, or just let them take care of it all.
Search on google for dyno sheets.
But i've done plenty of b20vtecs, its easy if you've got all of the right parts.
Its up to you whether you want to gather all of the parts, then take it to the shop, or just let them take care of it all.
Search on google for dyno sheets.
#11
Call some of our affiliates to find out pricing. When I do works on my engine, I always supply the parts, and pay for labour. That way, I can keep tap of how much each parts cost, and knowing exactly what is used on the car.
Andrew does not run a B20VTEC engine, he has tuned them before, however.
I know someone who's old B20VTEC setup made 185/145 to the wheel. Stock cams or not I cannot remember.
Andrew does not run a B20VTEC engine, he has tuned them before, however.
I know someone who's old B20VTEC setup made 185/145 to the wheel. Stock cams or not I cannot remember.
#12
The power is not that great for 2L bottom end. I did some reserch and it seems to be a big conversation starter wheather it is worth dooing the bottom end swap. I am confident that the amount of money it would cost to fine tune a B20 bottom end if everything was done the right way not the cheap way you can set your self up with a decent low boost turbo set up. I am still skeptikal about the whole swap. I am going to pm some of the shops that tcc has and see what they will offer. OK thanx a lot everyone.
#13
to do a b20vtec properly, you could definately boost your car and make double the power.
I didn't even get into whats all involved to do it "properly", that would require ARP rod bolts, some high compression pistons with deep valve releifes. That alone will cost $1000-2000 depending on if you OEM bearings/water pump/timing belt or aftermarket stuff. There is also required machine work that goes along with using the ARP rod bolts (line hone the rod journals) and you'll want to use an oversized piston if you're buying new ones, so of course you'll need to bore/hone the cylinder walls. This is just what goes into the bottom end and getting it ready for high rpms and high power output.
Of course you'll need lots of parts for the head if you wanna make good power, such as bigger cams, better valvetrain, porting, valve job, milling.
And if you've spent all that money building the engine you'll want to use a nice custom header ($1000-1500) and free flowing exhaust to really get the most out of the setup.
To do all that work, you could easily buy a nice brand name turbo kit and make 300+whp all day long with good tuning.
I didn't even get into whats all involved to do it "properly", that would require ARP rod bolts, some high compression pistons with deep valve releifes. That alone will cost $1000-2000 depending on if you OEM bearings/water pump/timing belt or aftermarket stuff. There is also required machine work that goes along with using the ARP rod bolts (line hone the rod journals) and you'll want to use an oversized piston if you're buying new ones, so of course you'll need to bore/hone the cylinder walls. This is just what goes into the bottom end and getting it ready for high rpms and high power output.
Of course you'll need lots of parts for the head if you wanna make good power, such as bigger cams, better valvetrain, porting, valve job, milling.
And if you've spent all that money building the engine you'll want to use a nice custom header ($1000-1500) and free flowing exhaust to really get the most out of the setup.
To do all that work, you could easily buy a nice brand name turbo kit and make 300+whp all day long with good tuning.
#14
Yaa for sure. Ha ha I like when my b16 screams at 9200 rpm to keep going. I found something on e-bay. I called them too and talked to the owner. I reserched the shop to and found only good things that were said. Andrew tell me what you think go on the link its a turbo set up. It cought my attention. Be honest rip off or maybe something to look at: http://cgi.ebay.ca/B16-B18-INTEGRA-X...ayphotohosting
and this one.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/88-91-CRX-B16-B18...ayphotohosting
and this one.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/88-91-CRX-B16-B18...ayphotohosting
#15
stay away from ebay imitation turbo kits.
Rev speed?
Is that supposed to be like rev-hard?
You get what you pay for, i've seen these cheap "ebay" kits give users nothing but problems wayyyyy to often when trying to tune their cars.
Get a good quality turbo, manifold, BOV, wastegate, FMIC and boost controller and you'll be fine. The rest you can cheap out on (i guess), but don't forget bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump.
Rev speed?
Is that supposed to be like rev-hard?
You get what you pay for, i've seen these cheap "ebay" kits give users nothing but problems wayyyyy to often when trying to tune their cars.
Get a good quality turbo, manifold, BOV, wastegate, FMIC and boost controller and you'll be fine. The rest you can cheap out on (i guess), but don't forget bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump.
#16
ha ha thats funny i called the shop california and talked to the owner. He said that he did not know that ppl in canada had civics haha. Yaa really... well there are so many mixed reviews about that. i am going to stick to my gut instinkt and will put a kit together on my own so that i know each peace will work with the other one and not blow up haha. Well i have a whole bunch of work i need to do to my motor before i can get my turbo. Starting from my rack and pinion to a LSD tranny wich will be hard with a cable clutch setup. thanx a lot but i will soon join the Turbo club i dunno if it will be this year tho. Drive safe.
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