Hey guys and girls, I just purchased CTR cams, ITR valves, dual springs and retainers, this is all going into a B16A. When installing, do I use a B16 head gasket kit or an ITR head gasket kit?

Also a reminder that the bottom end has CTR pistons, a knifed edge crank, ACL bearrings, ITR oil pump, ARP head studs, lighten flywheel, stage 1 clutch, shaved down to 20 thou, sleaved cylinders, DC headers, high flow cat, 2.25 exhaust with an ITR muffler, no resignator, fuel pressure regulator set to 40 psi and a type R tranny CAI with K&N filter.

Im sure you guys have seen many of these similar set ups before, my question is how much power do you think might produce? I've done some research in the past and many people were hitting around 168 whp and 113 wtq, these estimations are similar set ups, but not quite what I have.

I'm also planning on putting ITR I/M bored out to 65mm and also T/B. If anyone has any suggestions, please feel free to message me.

Thanks.

 

If the bottom end is a B16A that is the headgasket you will need.

After all that machine work and labour I hope you are going to get zeeman to tune it.

The only issue after I briefly skimmed through your parts list was that DC header. DC headers flow horribly, IMO a header is what makes a huge difference on an N/A built car. So spend some extra money and purchase a decent header.

 

Well I spoke to zeeman and he said that I don't have to do any porting or machine work bc b16 heads have good flow already. Yes I will be bring it to zeeman he's the one that chipped my computer... Also IMO header what does that mean?

 

header = exhaust manifold

headers = exhaust manifolds on a v6/v8 where there are 2 of them

No offense, but there sounds like some odd things going on with your build. I'll explain what I mean.

You say you have sleeved cylinders, did you really pay $2000+ to sleeve a n/a b16?

CTR pistons in a b16 doesn't really yeild higher compression, CTR pistons are a bad choice IMO because of their shape, they don't promote good flame travel to ensure a complete burn of the air/fuel mixture.

Ditch the DC header (not headers...lol) they're crap and are built like poop, I had one, it sucked. I recommend a Vibrant j-spec 4-2-1 with 2.5" collector. I also recommend a 2.5" exhaust, it will help with top-end power, which is basically what b16s are all about.

A b16 headgasket is basically the same thing as an ITR headgasket, they're both 81mm bore so either will work.

170whp and 113wtq is generous for a build of that nature, the ONLY way to tell is to put it on a dyno.

 

I bought the block already done Off a buddy I don't know how much it cost him to do the sleeves. DC headers was a mistake meant to say header . Thank you for pointing that out.. Any other suggestions .. Thank you zeeman your help always comes in handy

 

sleeving a N/a block is a waste , esp , when using only CTR pistons!!! Make sure that it's really sleeved and that you verify or get someone to verify it. is it just a block guard perhaps? anyways, like Zeeman said, why would anyone pay like $1500 to sleeve a block and just use CTR pistons. using stock cams like a CTR is not gonna get you too much power, cuz the power band is still around the same and will stop making power around 8200. Get some aggressive cams and change the ITR valve springs and retainers for ones that can rev 10,000 RPM all day long , what kind of Rods are you using? Ferrea valve train, Toda cams for N/A , 2.5 inch exhaust , it's gonna be annoyingly loud w/o the resonator , the vibrant j spec is really good and not too harsh on the wallet. I would do a single crank pulley, too!! this should get you with a proper tune 180ish whp, around 115tq. good luck

 

Get the following:

-RMF Narrow tube header (search on Honda-Tech), BEST BANG FOR BUCK! read the reviews..and hytech replica is ****
-ATLEAST 310cc injectors...or i think the stock preludes are 370cc? not too sure, but u will need bigger injectors
-b18 bottom end or b20, b20 will yield abit more power/tq than a b18 but then again with b20, its unsafe to rev past 8-8.5k, but you say you have ARP, balanced bottom end..etc
-please get a 2.5" exhaust and plus, you will need it with the RMF
-dont spend your money on the itr IM/TB, the b16 im/tb good enough and plus 60mm is big enough
-if your gonna tune it, why not get adj cam gears?
the CTR cams is a good choice(i had the intake cam, with a itr exhaust, itr/ctr exhaust is exact same throughout all yrs)

thats my $0.02

 

I'm gonna give my buddy a call,and ask him if he sleeved it or used block guards.. The rods are stock b16 not 100%..sure. I payed only 300 for the block with everything done to it. Remind you I want it to still be a d/d at the same time. Also l I'm not planning on reving up to 10,000.
Hey guys I'm still new to the engine swaping and builds but I'm willing to learn so that's why I ask the pros ... Thank you guys ones again, keep the suggestions coming the more the better

 

actually, from my experience a mild CR b16 doesn't like big cams. Typically to make power up top, you need higher compression, larger plenum volume, larger throttle body size and bigger exhaust....along with cams designed to make power at such RPM. B16s have a short stroke so high RPM stability is good, hondas cranks are balanced well from the factory, so that also helps drastically.

The only reason I'd sleeve an engine is either to make 400+whp on a boosted application or bore it out for a little more displacement. Going from 81mm to 84mm on a b16 would be a 1.8L (ish).
Bigger pistons increase piston speed, which will be crazy high on a high revving engine, which will/can increase sidewall load on the cylinders....with a sleeved block its not such a huge deal, but its all relative to the size of the piston, stroke and RPM.

Is this engine assembled with the cylinder head on the block?
A quick look will tell you whats really done to this engine.

 

I was thinking about a adj cam gear but I don't know which one .. Any suggestions

 

get ones with legible markings, some of them (STR and others) have rediculous marks that are hard to understand.....lol.

Also make sure they have more than 4 adjusting bolts.

 

I have pics of it but my computer is not working at the moment. Andrew u seen the engine already put together and running (it's under daniels b16 on your computer. You rechiped my computer).

 

Hey guys so I called my buddy, he said that he didn't sleeve it he put block guards on it.. I made a mistake,like I said I'm new to this scene and still willing to learn.

 

did he used STD or oversized CTR pistons?

adjustable cam gears can help dial it in on the dyno, i'm using venom gears on my car.

just the other day I (and by I...I really mean chris_v2) removed a broken skunk2 (brand new) cam gear from an engine because it was loose on the exhaust camshaft....the bolt was tight but the gear was fuct...put the stock gears back on and problem solved, this same car's timing belt was off by a tooth when it showed up. I don't know how people can do such garbage work and charge such large coin, its a shame.

Moral of the story, skunk2 cam gears are meh at best, i've also seen them with stripped adjusting bolts.

 

He put Ctr pistons in the block. So andrew should I pick up some venom adj cam gears?also how much do they go for?

 

I've been reading a lot lately about how poor the quality of skunk 2 products are, have they always been like that or is this a recent thing?

 

Hey andrew I was looking at the aem 5 bolt adj cam gear what do think? There going for about 109 each.

 

The AEM 5 bolts are OK, just make sure they don't have crazy markings on them for the adjustments.

I bought my venom gears used for $150 like 4-5 years ago.

Skunk2 camshafts are OK and about the only skunk2 product I'd use in my car. As far as I know the quality of their stuff has always been hit or miss. Its funny, I got an email from skunk2 asking if I would want a sponsorship, in return for honest reviews (except if they were bad, in which case I'd be helping them improve their product while keeping the bad reviews to myself). I told them that I was interested in something like that, i'm not one to keep bad reviews to myself.

 

Hey andrew Im planning on getting the vibrant header, should I get the 4-2-1 or 4-1 which header will make more power. I don't wanna get the wrong header. Thanks

 

i'd use the 4-2-1 j-spec.