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d16 to b20 swap

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Old 06-Jul-2015 | 10:28 AM
  #1  
RedEj1's Avatar
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From: Canada
Canada d16 to b20 swap

I'm looking to do a b20 swap in my ej1 and had some quick questions. right now in my car its a D16z6 with obd1. I know for the engine to fit in mount wise I need eg6 mounts. But engine wise should I go b20b or b20z which one do you guys think is better also I want to use my obd1 ecu and I know it'll have to be chipped but what chip should I use and do I need to do any mods to my D series wire harness. any feed back is good feed back thanks.
Old 10-Jul-2015 | 04:45 PM
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b20z is a better engine than a b20b (technically)

Good motor either way, but all in the total swap, when going from a D to a B, I recommend going with a B16 or GSR, even more so when the car was a EH3, you're already wired for VTEC, why not keep it. I may be a little biased since I owned a few Hondas but my first was also a 93 Si hatch, they're kinda the best for a swap in that it's possibly the easiest chassis to work with.

You're ECU is what everyone tuning an OBD-1 car wants, either get it chipped with a basemap for the motor you end up with till you can dyno it properly, or run Neptune RTP and load a basemap then tune it yourself/have it tuned and be able to make adjustments later on.

Back to why I say B16 or GSR, I don't say this because VTAKKKKK! I say it because the trans internals are better than non VTEC, and you won't find a complete swap B20 at an importers. you'll only find ones other guys have swapped out after beating the crap outta them. When you add up the cost of shafts, trans, distributor, alternator plus with a B20 you'll need an intake manifold as well as with any B an exhaust manifold, buying a complete B16/GSR usually ends up a cheaper package deal. Later on when you find you want more power, a B16 handles boost typically the best (reliably anyway) or you already have everything you need short of a ~$250 conversion kit to swap in a B20 ~$4-600 motor, and if you're already running neptune, then it's just a matter of starting with a fresh basemap, and start tuning again. Just be sure to have a good wideband O2 sensor if that's the route you wanna go.

Wiring and B into your car, just be sure to get OBD-1 Alt, dizzy, and either an aftermarket intake manifold or an OBD1 version, then use your D16Z6 harness to hook it all up. By chipping or adding RTP or similar to your existing ECU, you won't need a conversion harness either, you'll just need to tap into one lead going into the ECU to add the wideband into the ECU so you can datalog and have O2 readings all on screen for proper tuning.
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