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Help: B18c5 idle 1200rpm

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Old 24-Jul-2009 | 06:30 PM
  #1  
smokeybanana's Avatar
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Help: B18c5 idle 1200rpm

Hello,

Just done the B18 type R swap into my 99 civic hatch.

When the car idling at 1200rpm.

I have done checking some of the step.

Changed ECU.
Changed IACV.
Changed TPS.
Changed MAP sensor.
Adjust the **** under the throttle body.
No vacuum leaks.
Clean throttle body.

But nothing changed the Idle.

Anyone can help?

Thanks
Old 24-Jul-2009 | 06:33 PM
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smokeybanana's Avatar
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Oh. And after the motor is hot. Sometimes engine light came on and bump the idle to 1500rpm and no vtec. And the motor will be super hot and boilling.

I know the car is running leaks. But i dunno why. Cuz i'm using the stock p73 ecu with walbor fuel pump.

Please help.

Thanks

Originally Posted by smokeybanana
Hello,

Just done the B18 type R swap into my 99 civic hatch.

When the car idling at 1200rpm.

I have done checking some of the step.

Changed ECU.
Changed IACV.
Changed TPS.
Changed MAP sensor.
Adjust the **** under the throttle body.
No vacuum leaks.
Clean throttle body.

But nothing changed the Idle.

Anyone can help?

Thanks
Old 24-Jul-2009 | 07:19 PM
  #3  
orthow's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 242
What code are you getting?

That will be a good start to figuring out what it wrong.

Just a thought.. emissions related codes tend to take 5-10 minutes to pop up so it could be an 02 sensor related code.
Old 24-Jul-2009 | 07:28 PM
  #4  
chrisuv's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 17
I am doing a b18c5 into a 99 si using the itr harness do i need to mod plugs or are they plug and play
Old 24-Jul-2009 | 08:54 PM
  #5  
jomama's Avatar
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Joined: May 2009
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Originally Posted by orthow
What code are you getting?

That will be a good start to figuring out what it wrong.
haha, yea, i would start there
Old 24-Jul-2009 | 09:13 PM
  #6  
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Posts: 734
From: Burlington
I agree with pulling the cold, that's the best way to start. Also, did you say that your motor is running hot. Not a good idea to be running the motor if it's over heating, and if you engine light is on you shouldn't be revving the motor that high.
Old 24-Jul-2009 | 10:53 PM
  #7  
smokeybanana's Avatar
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the problem is the engine light went off after I shut off the car right away so I can't get code. and engine is hot but not overheating coolant. like u will almost burn ur hand when u try to open the hood
Old 24-Jul-2009 | 11:26 PM
  #8  
seanv98's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 734
From: Burlington
If the ceck engine light comes on at all, it will stay stored in the ECU until it is cleared. So even if the light isn't on, you can still pull the code.
Old 25-Jul-2009 | 12:19 PM
  #9  
smokeybanana's Avatar
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Originally Posted by seanv98
If the ceck engine light comes on at all, it will stay stored in the ECU until it is cleared. So even if the light isn't on, you can still pull the code.
My mechanic try to get the code with it said connection error. I even use paper clip trick. But it didn't work too.

Thanks
Old 25-Jul-2009 | 09:43 PM
  #10  
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F8i
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From: Kincardine
Your mechanic must be an idoit, or never seen a swapped honda. an OBD2 reader will not read a swapped OBD1 ECU. You can simply take the wire that is needed to be ground out and wire it to a switch, wire the other side of the switch to a ground. When your engine light is on, flick the switch, should flash you the code.

On my swap, on of the biggest problems I had was over heating. Flush all the crap out of your collant. Change your Thermostate ($12). Refill your car with fresh fluid. Also, you most likely will need a bigger rad! If I was stuck in traffic, I would start to over heat. If your car is moving, the air will cool it down. Just staying in the driveway idling will cause your car to over heat if you don't have the proper rad. There's Dual or Double core rads that will fit perfectly, or you could Fab a Acura Rad in.

Have you changed the oil? I also had a problem with my oil filter... They said replace the oil in 500km... they should've said in 500ft...

Those were 2 major problems I had with my engine from Tiger Japanese. that and it was an obvious high mileage engine. Hope my B20 last longer...

-B
Old 25-Jul-2009 | 10:27 PM
  #11  
iamcanadian_31's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 54
From: canada eh
i bought a b16 from tiger and it idles like a abg of **** too... all i did was **** around adjusting the TPS and the idle screw or whateveter is it right where the piping for the intake somes out... that fixed my problem and cleared my check engine light
Old 25-Jul-2009 | 11:00 PM
  #12  
smokeybanana's Avatar
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My car should be 0bd2. cuz i'm using SIR harness with OBD2 p73 with a jumper.

I'm using a SIR rad. is it enough? i don't normally stuck in traffic.

Thanks

Originally Posted by F8i
Your mechanic must be an idoit, or never seen a swapped honda. an OBD2 reader will not read a swapped OBD1 ECU. You can simply take the wire that is needed to be ground out and wire it to a switch, wire the other side of the switch to a ground. When your engine light is on, flick the switch, should flash you the code.

On my swap, on of the biggest problems I had was over heating. Flush all the crap out of your collant. Change your Thermostate ($12). Refill your car with fresh fluid. Also, you most likely will need a bigger rad! If I was stuck in traffic, I would start to over heat. If your car is moving, the air will cool it down. Just staying in the driveway idling will cause your car to over heat if you don't have the proper rad. There's Dual or Double core rads that will fit perfectly, or you could Fab a Acura Rad in.

Have you changed the oil? I also had a problem with my oil filter... They said replace the oil in 500km... they should've said in 500ft...

Those were 2 major problems I had with my engine from Tiger Japanese. that and it was an obvious high mileage engine. Hope my B20 last longer...

-B
Old 25-Jul-2009 | 11:19 PM
  #13  
bseries_el's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 170
sir rad is good enough even the stock one from your car! It could be the water pump if its getting hot under the hood. Make sure you put the right plug in to the right sensor. they pretty much have an identical plugs that goes to the intake manifold side, check for those. It should be straight forward after that.
Old 25-Jul-2009 | 11:27 PM
  #14  
bseries_el's Avatar
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Posts: 170
Any stock rad is good enough!!! Unless you really want a full size rad from the integra. Also, did you change the waterpump before you swap your engine??? It could be that problem. Did you bleed it properly? Make sure there is no air in the system, this makes the iacv malfunction and it would not work properly. Check for the plugs behind the intake manifold!!! you might have switch them around as they all have the same plugs for the iacv, knock sensor, etc.... Your setup has to meet the stock oem setup from the itr since youre using a p73. It would have been easier if you got a p28 and chip, that way you can tune it in the future. Thats just my 2cents.
Old 26-Jul-2009 | 08:49 PM
  #15  
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F8i
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From: Kincardine
Originally Posted by bseries_el
Any stock rad is good enough!!! Unless you really want a full size rad from the integra.
Is you have a half rad... It should be upgraded. Your SiR rad should be big enough.
To 'bleed' the rad, you just let the air out the rad cap and top it up with fluid.

Make sure the mixture is correct. If you have too much rad fluid and not enough water, that may cause over heating. Don't use DEX Cool or any other GM garbage either. I'm beat, can't think of anything more... to tired.
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