saugaboi

hi guys.. im new to the site.. i own a 01 toyota celica gt-s turbo.. i know quiet abit about hondas but compare to u guys im a newbie.. so please help me !

i just bought my gf a 99si coupe with crv block / sir head / gsr tranny / chiped b20 ecu (dont know which one ...lol)/some gay cat back / gay shortram intake/

so my questions are

1. which header has the best performance on this set up and will fit ?or the best gain for the money.

2. which cat back exhuast would fit aftermarket or stock wise/ gsr,sir,type-r ect ect .. performance wise good and not too loud.

3. what problems should i watch for with this set up ?

4. which cold air intake would fit? and which intakemanifold will be nice?

5. WHATS the REDLINE should be ? i know this set up shouldnt rev too high..

6. what can i do to get good gain without spending TOO much money.....
im thinking skunk2 cams ?

7. would 91 oct gas be fine ??? i only use 94 ...

8. how much whp can i get out of this set up with simple bolt ons?i/h/e

9. how much whp can i get out of this set up with mild mods like cams/cam gears/i/h/e/ tune / better ecu

10. any better ecus i can use ?

11. any important or help advise on this set up ?

sorry for all the questions.. its just when i have a car i like to know all about it..and mod it right..

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOU TIME !

TRex

Nice Find.. You beat me to it... Ive done some research and stock B20 Vtec makes about 200Hp with 140-145 tq. These numbers may already include a non restrictive i/h/e. How fast does your GF want to go. This car not pull hard enough as it is?

MPR

Nice car!

Ok, I think you need to figure out what you want to do first.

Your redline will depend on your cams/valve train. With stock B16 cams, don't rev it over 8. It won't make any more power up there. With skunk 2 cams, it depends on which cams you get. I'm not sure how high the b20 bottom end can rev but you don't need to rev it any higher than the rpm where you make your peak hp at.

As for a header and exhaust system, I'd suggest you go with a good 4-2-1 design with a 2.5" collector. Vibrant makes a decent header for decent prices. After that go with 2.5" high flow cat and 2.5" all the way back with mandrel bends.

When it comes to intakes, most intakes are all the same. 3" diameter aluminum tubing with a cone filter stuck on the end. Usually the main difference between them is the quality of the filter they use. You can usually use the filter it comes with until it gets dirty then I'd just replace it with a K&N and never buy another filter again. But seriously they're all basically the same, with the exception of a few kits like the V2. The difference between them power wise is negligible. The 'gay' short ram you have on there is probably fine, unless your wanting a cold air intake. But don't go and buy the most expensive cai kit you can find, it will not make hardly any more power than the cheaper ones.

When I went to buy a sri for my 00 SiR I priced out an injen, AEM, ractive and several others. The injen and aem kits were upwards of $150-$200. The ractive kit was only $70. We pulled them out of the box and the differences were nill. I bought the ractive intake, installed a BPR velocity flow stack and a custom K&N cone filter and it showed considerable gains on the dyno.

Your B20 as is, as long as it has been tuned well should run fine on 91 octane.

Which skunk2 cams were you thinking of running?

Skunk2 actually makes a nice aftermarket intake manifold with a larger throttle body that would compliment a set of stage 2 cams on that motor.

As for the numbers you can lay down with this, you could break 200whp with the right set of cams and a good tune.

Talk to zeeman about the ecu and tuning. He knows all about that stuff better than most of us.


Hope that helps you out.

crazed

...

saugaboi

thx alot guys .. keep them coming !! please !!!

saugaboi

bummpps.. whats the crv redline btw

JLCivixHBDX

hey

With more agressive came, the piston need to be notched !.....on the intake side (0.5mm bigger), if not possibility to touch in higher revolution.



Verify the water pump you have. If the motor go oftenly around the 8000 rpm change the water pump 19T for a 22T ( B16, B18 pump).


Hope this help

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

if you notch the pistons you must balance them (well, if you don't want to half-*** your build).
I'd honestly just use RS machines cast pistons. They're cheap, yeild a 11.5:1 compression ratio, have deep valve reliefs so you don't have to notch them and balance them again, and are available in a variety of bore sizes.
If you notch the stock pistons, you'll be lowering the static compression ratio, which won't help if you're using bigger cams.
Its a good idea to balance the whole rotating assembly if you plan on revving to 8000+rpms, and use ARP rod bolts.
If you want to just keep everything stock, i'd just use an ITR head with the intake manifold and throttle body. It'll most likely be cheaper than buying an b16/GSR head, getting ITR cams, getting a better intake manifold and larger throttle body, b/c the ITR head comes with good cams, better valve springs (on the exhaust side at least), a nice intake manifold and 62mm throttle body, combined with a good intake, header and free flowing exhaust system its easy to make nice WHP numbers and gobs of torque....with a good tune of course.

chris_v2

I wouldnt revv a bone stock B20 BE past 7200rpm

saugaboi

thank you guys ... these are amazing tips..

if someone would add me on msn would be great. .. ive a few more questions but dont wanna take up all the space here

saxophonerulzz@hotmail.com THANKS !!!!