Hey guys just wondering if any of you guys have experienced this b4.

In the morning when I start my car it starts up FINE, but once I let off the clutch it shakes everything up and the rpms drop to like 750-800rpms then go up to normal cold rpms 1,200+. It only started doing this since it's been hitting the negatives.... b4 when I would start it... it would just go to the normal cold rpms.

At first I thought it was my battery which was a small 11.5 lbs racing battery so I replaced it with a Eliminator battery off a TL.
Volts seem to be good mid 14's.

If I start the car anytime after the 1st morning start it's okie
Like if I let it sit for 3-4 hours its okie... just when I let it sit overnight like 10-12+hours it does this.... Any1 experience this b4?

Using 5w30 oil, 1/2 bottle lucas and Fram oil filter.

B16 vtec.

THANKS

 

engine type? any mods to it?

 

Its a b16 na series vtec....

 

Any1?????

 

get an oil change and dont put lucas in it to thick for winter had simlar on my b18 i was using 10w-30 with half bottle of lucas

 

I just went for an oil change....I was running 10w30 b4 so i switched to 5w30for winter
I have used lucas b4... and it's never had this problem...
Like it'll start good and if i hold clutch down its normal... but once i let clutch go... car like jerks and idles low then goes up... like maybe 700 rpm then goes up to normal cold rpm above 1krpm....

 

I find it hard to believe that if you put the clutch pedal down the car stops jerking and acting up.

So let me get this straight.

Its the morning, you start the car (its cold) car starts up fine, you take your foot off the clutch it starts to jerk and idle starts to surge, you push the clutch back down and the surging and jerking stops?

 

***UPDATE***

Car has now since stalled twice in the morning cold start.
I put car in "N" engage clutch hold it down and start car like u would start any manual car. RPMS are at about 800rpm as I let go of clutch rpms drop and then jump up or sometimes (shuts engine off because rpms go too low) If I put clutch back in quick enough rpms go back to 800rpms. Now with the rpms droping car does a jerking feel.

Any1?????

 

i get the same thing, well kinda. when i start the engine stays around 1200rpm when i release the clutch, it sinks down to maybe 900-1000rpm and back up again. i think its normal because when you think about it, when you turn a heater on, the rpms drop abit. and release of a clutch starts spinning the transmission even though its in neutral. so therefore the engine has to do more work and therefore the rpms drop abit. now since its cold, it affects it more. maybe a good tune-up could help not sure.
btw do you start your car with interior fan on?

 

Interior fan is off...
Tune up was just done... new batt aswell.
Never experienced this b4....especially the stalling part... like the rpms drop really low and sometimes causes to stall....

 

????

 

i noticed mine was doing this the other day, the rpms drop lower when you on the brake too. im not sure why that could be happening but i would guess its got something to do with either spark or fuel. your plugs good? battery?

 

Spark plugs are good!
New battery was put in....

 

How is the fluid in the transmission?

 

the clutch can't have anything to do with the engine if the tranny is in neutral. if you're doing this with the lever in gear then you have a clutch problem. otherwise forget the clutch engagement cuz it's a separate system with just a bearing in common... the clutch master doesn't draw vacuum (not power assisted).

 

the drop in rpm when you turn on the fan or lights is electical obviously cause the battery doesnt like the cold i cant remember the technical explanation and its seeing a greater load than not having those things on. my cavalier does it too, if i start the car with the fan and lights on, the lights will be dim and the fan wont spin as fast as it should, and then a couple seconds later as the battery sees more power from the alt the lights get full power and so does the fan, its the same concept with your cell phone if its exposed to the cold for a long period of time your battery will drain.

it only does it after it sits for a long time, you could possibly have a drain somewhere in the system? have you had a charge test done, other than the one you did and did you use a multimeter or was it a charge test done at a shop? have you checked the voltage on the battery before you do the cold start? also what happens if you start then put it in gear and try to move does it do the same thing as in neutral? if it does then very likely its sensor or wiring related.

 

Okie there is no drop in rpm from turning the fan or lights on..... well there is but that isn't my problem as that is normal.
My problem is this....
I always put my car in 2nd gear when i shut it off. In the morning the first time I start it for the day, i'll put the gear in "N" AND then start the car....the rpms are low like at 800rpm when they should really be in cold rpm like 1,300 or 1,400. As i LET go of the clutch the rpms will drop to 300rpm or less and sometimes stall. As its doing that everything shakes and acts rough..... Once again its only been doing this since its been getting REALLY cold. New fuel filter, battery, distributor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, pcv valve, ground wires. (all done in the last few mths with the exception of battery a few weeks ago) Oil change done 2,000kms ago 5w30 and some lucas.

 

what happens if you put it in gear and try to go immediately, without letting off the clutch after the shift if you know what i mean? like clutch down, start in neutral, pop into first or reverse, then let the clutch out and try to move normally? if it does it there too, i would say it might be one of the sensors like tps but then again it might be the ecu messing with you, or maybe the air intake temperature sensor, seeing as the coolant isnt warm yet, to assist with warming up the air going through the throttle body, it could be causing it to stall or bog due to an improper mixture, like adding an atmospheric blow off valve to a recirculated turbo car in between shifts it bogs like madd kind unrelated but you get the idea kinda probably stupid example. but im not sure if the iat has enough control over the car to do this though, but that really doesnt explain the part about when you let the clutch out, just throwing an idea out there. is the ecu throwing any codes? and try disconnecting the tps or iat sensor, one at a time and see if the situtation changes.

 

Ecu is not throwing any codes....

 

Thats a bad example IMO b/c the reason removing a recirculated BOV causes issues is b/c its on a car that uses a MAF sensor to measure air instead of a MAP sensor, so when that extra dump of recirculated air isn't there (from using an atmospheric dump BOV) the MAF isn't seeing/recognizing that and it's still adding the extra fuel as if the extra air is there.

The IAT sensor measures the temperature of the air, it has nothing to do with the coolant temperature, that would be the ECT sensor (engine coolant temperature). You're thinking along the right lines though, maybe the ECT compensation table needs some tweaking? Or the ECT sensor isn't working properly. Obd1 cars are kinda bad for the CEL coming on, it kinda takes a lot before it will trigger the CEL.
High_in_fibre you have a tuned ecu right?
Has it always done this?