Would a b16a3 head from a 96 del sol fit on a b20b buttom?

 

ya but you need to feed the oil to the head

LS/B20 VTEC Hardware Kit

Golden Eagle LS B20 VTEC Head Conversion Kit

Baker Precision LS VTEC & B20 VTEC Oil Line Kit

 

FS (VA): Oil Feed Line Kit | LS/Vtec | B20/Vtec | Mini-me | Frankenstein! | - Honda-Tech

 

for the record; its which

i seriously thought this thread was gonna be about Halloween or something ahaha

 

B series parts are all swappable. However, things to look for:
B20A also known as late prelude block. It's very weak & crappy.
DOHC vs. VTEC While B series are all dual over head cams, they're not all VTEC and you're building a b20vtec so the parts you need are for vtec.
OBD0, OBDI, OBDII. Figure out what you need there... Conversion harnesses etc.
Water Pump, Oil Pump, Block Girdle(from the Delsol), Timing Belt, VTEC Conversion kit I buy my parts from here. And possibly a block gaurd. Some people will argue agaisnt a block gaurd and girdle, that's your choice, it is optional.
Head Gasket buy for the B20 84mm.

I guess that's too much info... to answer you're question...
yes a B16A3 head will fit a B20B block from a CRV. You will need to change the dowels and head gaskets.

 

Witch Head nebula

 

F8i not to sound like a smart *** or anything, but not all b series parts are swapable. For example itr intake mani will not fit on a non vtec motor. It can be made to fit but in the end you can make anything fit.
A while ago I found a thread somewhere where a b series head was mounted on zc dohc. Took a lot of work but it ran...not reliably but ran. Haha.
Also I'm not sure on this but don't you have to do something to the block to build a b20vtec/ls vtec? Cuz all the time I see people swapping pistons to itr/gsr? Is that necessary?

 

You can leave the B20 pistons if you like.

 

Sorry to thread jack but I had a last question. So if all you need to do is supply the oil to the head...assuming the vtec solenoid..is there different way other than sandwich plate? As far as I know, most of the d-series have a thing on the back of the block where people out a T in and feed one end to turbo...now do b series motors have something like that?
Oh and I lied about that being last question haha, anyways...does a b16 or b18c head bolt up to the block or is there something extra needed like drilling/machining?

 

which do you guy think is a better relyable engine a b20 vtec tuned or turbo my existing b16a?

 

i believe people use the sandwich plate because the other hole where people get oil for turbo is kinda small, and vtec needs lots of volume and pressure to activeate, turbos only need like 30psi or something like that, from the posts i've read on the subject, golden eagle vtec conversion kit is the best, quality, reliability.

 

The thing you change in the B20 block to make the head fit is the dowels. And I note there is a difference from DOHC and VTEC. I believe, but might be mistaken, the GS-R manifold is actually different, though I know a member here couldn't get the Skunk2 Header to fit his ITR, so maybe it's the ITR. I consider ZC's a freak of nature, they don't really fit in anywhere.

When building a N/A engine (Naturally Aspirated) you want a high compression, like the ITR engine 11:1 or so. The B20B has a 8.8:1 compression, which isn't very high. That's why people swap the pistons, and the rods can't take too much power.

I would go with a B20VTEC and tune it. B16A1(92-93) has a compression around 10.1:1 which is really high for turbo charging. That being said, my crx when I bought it had a B16A1 boosted with 7PSI reaching 197WHP. The Turbo was a Garrett T3 with a .60 trim, I believe. I'm now building a B20VTEC Turbo, curretnly at Gord Bush's being bored.

You can 'easily' get 200WHP from a NA B20Vtec. GS-R cams, bore from 84mm to 85mm, raise your compression to atleast 11:1 with new pistons and rods, better throttle body, new intake & Headers... Will cost a few bucks.
NOTE: You need to be able to fuel it, so if the compression is to high, your engine will retard itself because of knock(predetination). Now you know why higher Octanes exisit... not because they're "Cleaner" but beause they have a high detination tempature.

Okay.. I left for awhile then came back and lost my train of thought...
I think I'll post my B20VTEC build on another page.

 

Witch head you say??









nvm me....carry on!

 

^Guy I was thinking the same thing LOL I was killing myself laughing at the thread title..

A mod should really edit that for him, I hit "new Post" and it's an ESL free-for-all LMAO

 

even better!

 

If your not sure what vtec head to use on your ls/vtec, this will help you decide which one for either b16 head or GSR head.
B16 heads share the same bolt pattern as ITR's for the intake manifold. They are easier to find aftermarket intake manifolds for than GSR heads, as well as being able to bolt on an ITR manifold. However, GSR heads have a distinct advantage over B16/ITR heads. Although having slightly smaller combustion chambers that raise compression is an advantage, it is the reason why it raises compression, that is the REAL advantage. You see, GSR heads employ flat surfaces in the combustion chamber called "quench" pads. They do raise compression, but the real advantage is this design's ability to deter the possibiltiy of detonation, promote better flame travel, and aid in cooling

 

its not east to make 200whp all motor out of a b20v......especially with gs-r cams . maybe i should say, its not easy at Tag. as for 10.2/1 c.r. being very high for boosted applications, Zman has been running an 11/1 c.r. turbo b16 for a fews years now. he did tune it himself, so that explains why his **** works

 

Well, all the people that I've talked to, have been able to hit OVER 200WHP. Dare I point people to H-T? Sure, people could be lying, happens al the time. Then I talk to people like Gord Bush, Andy at Neetronics, and I hear 'stories' (using the term loosely) about 200whp+ b20vtec's, 300whp K swaps. I believe Andrew(Zeeman) himself tuned a B18C5 (stock) to reach over 200whp... or 195... something amazing anyway.

As for a B16 boosted... I know it works, techincally... I have one, too. 197whp. But high compression pistons is a bad idea when turbo charging, because you can't, from my understanding, add too much boost... There's 'no room'. But then you get into bigger turbo's/smaller turbo's, Less boost etc... Of course you could boost a B16, but why would you want to with already high compression pistons?

Ontop of that, what's the rating (HP wise) for a stock B16 crank, pistons, and/or rods?

What fuel would you need to run for a good high compression, boosted, street setup?

... Sorry, I just don't see the point. However... I do agree 200% about the tuning. But makes me think of running a 13:1 compression... Your system will knock so much, your computer will retard your setup, might as well have ran 11:1... unless you can fuel it.

 

im running 12psi on my 11:1 CR b16.

I haven't tuned any stock b18c5's that make over 200whp. Hell i've only done a small amount of n/a 1.8-2L honda engines that make 200+whp on the dynojet I use. Stock B18c5's on the dyno I use typically make 165-180whp.

It definately takes more than slapping a b16 head onto a b20 bottom end to make 200whp SAE corrected.

Mugen Power knows firsthand what it takes b/c he broke the 200whp mark with his LSvtec....and its not just a b16 head on a LS block.

 

i have my old semi-built c1 graph in my hand that Paul tuned 4 years ago. it made 193whp, 136wtq. at that particular time, Paul had only tuned 3 200whp 1.8's, the highest being 208whp. as for Gord.....he knows me well, nuff said. he's 50% of the reason why i know what i do. next, please dont waste ur time referring to any charts on HT in search of the truth. there is a reason why every dyno is from cad, it reads crazy high. i.e. b19coupe dynoed a bone stock ls motor their and made 137whp, and they are rated 142 at the crank. attaining 200whp out of a 1.8L, on an accurate reading dyno, is not an easy chore at all. which is probably why many people either take ur path (f.i.) or overpay for a k...... the best thing for me was to set a goal and exceed it. the sad thing about all motor is that everybody thinks 200whp is easily attainable via 1.8L, yet the people that spit this **** dont have the proof to back it up. i can let everybody in on a secret....there are only a handful of true 205+whp 1.8L's in Canada (i know of 2 and Zman tuned them). if i'm wrong, i want to see the sheet. this is my challenge to everybody passing thru this thread.....call ur people and prove me wrong. post up these 1.8L motors that produce or exceed 200whp, SAE numbers, on nothing less than a 15" rim, thru the cat. and please be realistic, bcuz there are way too many people talking about these bone stock 18c's out there making 185-190whp & 135-140wtq. such blasphamy is down right insulting, and the tuners/shop owners spreading this junk should start attending church