you have a bum bushing somewhere in there

remove and inspect all parts before your next alignment. any worn/cracked bushings need to be replaced. pay attention to the steering rack bushings as well.

 

sounds reasonable. thanks.

 

ya... what happens is they get it all straightened out, but then after a few thousand clicks, the bushing gives out again and returns to it's "rest" position. bad bushings give inconsistent handling.

 

How hard are they to examine and change on my own? Is it safe to do underneath 2 jackstands?

 

i personlly wouldn't do this but The rear camber is corrected by shimming the upper control arms (links) outboard. Add washers between the body and upper mount. Each washer provides 1/2 degree of positive camber. A good rule of thumb is to use one washer per inch that the vehicle is lowered (i.e. if you've lowered your vehicle with an Eibach Pro-Kit (1.5" drop), use 2 washers per bolt for good measure).

 

No need, it turned into another camber thread

 

yes go to wheel and tire zone I use them exclusively .... tell them I sent you ...

 

I just re read your post... yah they do this for the occasional handeling (and i gurentee they would add more at the factory if it wernt for fat people and the back seats), this is why the mfg's reccomoned schedualed tire rotation, and the factory toe settings play a big roll in even tire ware!

This is also why I recomend alignemts after major suspension changes, the toe is what really chews your tires up! If the alignment guy knows what hes doing with a lowered vehicle (which most of them dont) he add the right amount of toe in to aid in even tire ware... see where people get chewed camber or chewed up tires period is toe out with alittle camber!

This alignment of course must be acompanied with reg tire rotation...allot of people neglect to rotate tires, and then they complain about tire ware :cry:

 

apparently I had -2.5 camber and I've been on the same tires for 6 months and haven't noticed any camber wear at all...its wierd. Maybe it's cuz its snow tires and they have deeper treads or something.

 

thanks for the summary boosty!!

here is the problem:

removing the stock Civic shocks and springs does not change any alignment settings. The susp will go through it's full range of motion with the correct geometry even without those units in place. Just put the top hat back on correctly, and you're fine!! only toe can be corrected on our cars really...

The only time you NEED an alignment is about every 48,000 kms for good measure, and any time you take out major components like trailing arms, or upper and lower control arms. Not for just springs and shocks.

If you have a car with STRUTS, this does not apply to you. So if you drive anything other than an 88-00 Civic, Del Sol, DA and DC2 Integras... then ANYTIME you remove your shocks - you need an alignment. This applies to all 01+ Civics, all RSX drivers and so on...