yeah, why is everyone changing their syn oil so often. I just switched to amsoil - i'll be waiting till about 10,000 km's untill i even think about changing my oil

or should I?

 

im just gonna start changing at 6000kms now
from 5000kms

 

yes the oil lasts for a longer period. But the effectiveness of the filter doesn't. I bet that some of you that believe that, leave your Brita filter in for years at a time.

So yes Motul Amsoil will last you a long time when driven daily, but you still gotta change that oil filter.

 

I plan to let my Mobil 1 in there for 10,000 km, but I'll change my filter every 5,000 km. When I switch to Amsoil or Motul after that, I plan to let the oil stay in there for at least 20,000 km. Again, filter change every 5,000 km of course. I strongly recommend reading that article and you'll see my reason.

 

motul 6100 full synthetic (changing to 8100 as motul has changed the 6100 to a semi-synthetic)
changed usually at 5000km depending on driving style
oem filter
b16a revving to 9200rpm all day long, 1200km a week (engine runs mint).

-the harder you run your engine, the more you need to change your oil. If you drive it like an old lady, then you can get away with every 20000km or so, but taking your engine to redline multiple time a day will break down your oil much quicker. I highly doubt that amsoil have their race cars only change their oil once a season - more likely every few races if not every race.

 

holy **** BAGA10
9200 all day and 1200km a week..
impressive

 

not trying to impress, just making the rpm relevant to the type of oil and frequency of change. With motors that rev high like most honda motors, and if consistantly pushed to the limit, should have their oil and filter changed often. I push my jetta to the limits, but only change the oil every 10000km (6000 redline).

 

if i live in california, what mobil 1 should i get? 10w30? 5w30? 15w30? please help.

 

i use mobil 1 5w30
197xxx k

change aroudn every 10,000k (filter gets changed more) ... mostly hwy driving

 

i use mobil 1 5w30
honda filter
i probably wont change the oil till after winter.... and my car has over 291 000 kms

 

do any of you reccomend castrol? cuz my pops is bitchin sayin its the best. i told him i was gonna use the mobil 1 and he was like, why? castrol is way better. i know he is, to an extent, full of ****. but is castrol really better?

 

nope

 

For "Castrol Syntec" which are packaged in USA: The answer is "NO".

However, the recent 0W30 "made in Germany" Castrol Syntec (if you could still find them in stores) are comparable to Mobil 1 Supersyn.

 

ok, so im kinda freaking out. i know everyone has there opinion and im just trying to figure out the best way to maintain my car so it lasts a while your input is very much appreciated.

i have a 94 civic si coupe
165,000kms
i use amsoil
my engine burns the oil to a minimum level after like 3000kms - so i just top it up when needed.

a) should i change my oil every 10,000 - 12,000 kms and my filter at the same time?

b) or just change my oil every 10,000kms but change my filter every 5000 kms

c) or change everything every 5-6,000 kms.

help!

 

Guys... for those that leave their oil in the engine for longer than service intervals is a bad idea.

Three things that engine oil do:
1) Lubricate- Hydromechanical suspension (not going to tell you want it is, want you to find out what it is)
2) To dissapate heat
3) Cleaning your carbon build up.

Notice #3 - The oil rings or oil control rings usually consists of two rings sandwhiching a expanding ring. The oil control ring's job is to apply oil to the cylinder walls and also scrape the oil away. Notice how it's called the oil "control" ring, it controls the amount of oil needed to keep your engine running for a long time.

You would want to see black oil all the time, because NO engine in the world is 100% thermal efficient, no engine have ever come close.
Although, a 90,000 horse power diesel engine have claim to produced 60% efficiency. Therefore, incomplete combustion of HC (hydrocarbon) gasses will leave it "mark" inside your engine. I have a pic of this engine, if anyone can help me post pics. The Valve is bigger than a human being.

Mobile 1 is factory oil for Porsche, Mec. Benz, Corvette, Viper etc... but those engines were designed to run on those oils and only that oil. Therefore, their engine went through a different system (preparation and treatments). Thus, they promote extented service intervals. Not the same case with Honda Civics. Knowing that it cleans your engine, the longer you leave your oil in your car, the longer the contaminates gets to break your oil down. Your engine oil contains many additives: Oxidation Resistance, Rust and Corrosion Protection etc... The oil does not break down, it's the "packaging" that breaks down.

Main difference besides package of Syn. Oil and Normal oil?
Syn. are man made - 100%.
Normal - Are petroleum based, meaning it comes from the ground

Although, Syn. oils are preferred in Sub-arctic conditions. @ - 35 degrees "censeless" (Celcius), it takes 11s for the oil to reach the camshafts. That's scarey, meaning before 11s, your engine is running with no lub. Metal to Metal all the way. This test was done with Mobile 1, don't know about anything else. You can not say that all oil is the same. That's like saying - "Why should I change my oil? it's still wet, when your oil is wet, it should be fine, right?"

If your OEM does not say anything about extented service intervals, please don't assume, specially if your not the guy who invented the Civic engine. You can always look up this spec. from Honda's engineers or some Honda Technicians (not all). Some technicians are dangerous when it comes to cars, sometimes a car is better before it goes into service.

Synthetics are the best for winter time... the pour point is amazing.
If Temps ever to reach -35 degrees, go with 0W30 - instant start and super flow rate. Meaning it takes lease time to get to your camshaft. The reason why they are so expensive is because they are man made. Now, how you make oil? if you can answer that question, then you would really know the costs of those oil.

 

this is something interesting i found on the mobil 1 website...

Can I go longer without changing my oil if I use a synthetic?

While Mobil 1 has given excellent results in extended oil drain tests, the safest and recommended practice is to follow your owner's manual. You can go all the way to the maximum mileage or time frame shown in your owner's manual for oil changes when using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™. This allows the reserve protection capabilities of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ to cover the unusual or unexpected driving conditions that we all experience from time to time.

Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long as 15,000 miles on some new cars. Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™'s high-performance reserves give you the confidence to go the full mileage or time frame recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is especially suitable for the latest vehicles with extended drain intervals or vehicles with oil monitoring systems that vary oil drain intervals.

everyone is saying change it every 5000k but I've seen the labels on some oil bottles in the U.S. and for synthetic they say change every 5000 miles which is roughly 8000k

 

The 2001+ Honda Civic and the 2002+ Honda CR-V have an extended service schedule. Could anyone tell what makes these engine so special that you need an oil change every 8000KM? 5W20 Dino Juice!

 

VEX: - Wait.... you use 5W20?

No oil company will say "extented oil drain for all cars," that's a fact...

I believed I talked about "trunk pistons" and "articulating pistons" (aka. Crossheads). Well, some engines are build like the two types of pistons mentioned about. All aluminum block or half aluminum and half cast iron or all cast iron. As we all know, cast iron is ALOT stronger, and alot more heat resistance and will not wear anywhere close to aluminum or they just have cast iron sleeves. Disadvantage is the weight. Thus, super low wear = longer drain life.

Your honda is not cast iron, so you can't say that it has the same intervals as the cat iron block.

Always check with SAE (Soceityof Automotive Engineers) or the petroleum instuite for best oil for your car.
Nothing else, I know alot of you guys are businessmen, and you all know verything there is to marketing. But I see alot of ppl get suckered into the marketing aspect of things.

 

I am not saying Mobile 1 is the BEST... I am not here to sell oil.

Bang for the buck has to be Quacker State... now they came out with a new oil called "winter"

Ppl don't really know how important oil really is to your car...
The main importance is hydromechanical suspension for bearings and bushings in the engine. SOOOOOOOOOO........ important that ppl choice to ignore this fact. Stay with OEM specs.... including oil change intervals and viscousity and viscousity index.

NEVER....NEVER.... mix oil brands.....NOoooooNOoooooo...NEVER

Completely drain your oil and fill up with something else, but never mix oil brands.

 

Anyone want to see the 90,000 Hp engine? It's a diesel engine, so the trq is 2X+ the HP - 180,000+ trq.

The piston is taller than your house.... asumming you live in a two floor house
There are stairs next to the crankshaft to go under the crankshaft.