B16 or B17???
09-Jan-2005 | 05:00 PM
#41
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 205
Originally posted by GoldBadge
If you're gonna mod it, why not buy a nice B20Z (it has a bit more hp) and then save up for a while and get Concepts on Wheels to add a VTEC head and tune it up...then you would have the best of both worlds...Just my opinion.
If you're gonna mod it, why not buy a nice B20Z (it has a bit more hp) and then save up for a while and get Concepts on Wheels to add a VTEC head and tune it up...then you would have the best of both worlds...Just my opinion.
Frankenstien swaps arent for the non DIYer's. They get expensive fast if you have a shop build one.
For a LSVTEC... ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, ITR water/oil pump, a aftermarket vtec oil line kit (not some crap you threw together yourself) and good tuning.
As for the comment about why go b18c and run .3 tents faster.. Thats absolute BS. A b18c with P&P and cams, with pr3 pistons on slicks with FULL interior in a crx can hit 12's with OPEN LSD. B16's simply can go that fast for that cheap. And havent you ever heard of potential? B16's have little potential compared to b18c's without major modifications. There is no replacement for displacement, and no im not bench racing. I will post the Vid and slip if you want.
As for me I would go with the b17. And do the pumps, gaskets, and belts first.
I have to quote this since its filled with BS. My wiring is BOLD
(Quote
Originally posted by Pimpin-EL
go b18C....b16s r weak.....all u'll be hearin is revvin....but u wont go anywhere
no b16's are not weak, have you ever been in one in a light car such as a crx? Was the motor strong and running right?...
then maybe you should sell your 16 and spend the extra $3.5K and buy an 18c to go 3 tenths faster?
3 tenths? Its a great deal more then that, maybe if you compare a b18c in a 99 civic si, to a b16 in a crx the b16 will only run 3 tenths, but if weight and driver is the same its a great deal more, and 3.5k? Its far less then that too. Lets get back to reality here
come on man, 18c's are weak. if you are talking real power then you'll have to go lsv the or crv (yeah, yeah, K series ivtec is the bomb, but, i'm sure we aren't looking to spend $10K on a swap) now, that's power, and, its still cheaper to build than buying a jdm 18c. no its not cheaper, and its not anymore power eaither, building a lsv to keep up with a b18c costs just as much if not more (if you dont DIY), and reliabilty is a major issue here
m power (Quote
Originally posted by Pimpin-EL
vtec is gay, imo..... It doesn't reall do all tat much....If i got to do my swap all over again, and loose the vtec, but have a car w/crazy torque.... hmmm... Vtec is fun, unless you plan to build a turbo 10sec car it adds power, look at dyno's. Torque is for burnouts, HP wins races
yeah, o.k. the fastest H cars have vtec. end of story.No that is not true at all, any idea what Vtec eliminators are? And what and when there used for? Research them yeah, you can make non-v motors fast, but, at the expense of your wallet. the b20 is nice, but, not with an ls tranny. if you go b20, you have to either obtain a gsr or sir tranny to enjoy it.....but, good luck sitting on the 401 with an SiR tranny traveling at 130kmh, with your tach licking 5000rpm. are we breaking world speed records here? dont post this garbage please, a jdm y1 tranny, with 15" wheels running 205/60 tires at 5000rpm is doing 159kmh, NOT 130kmhits not fun when you only have 16-1800 more revs before fuel cut off. thats alot of RPM's sir b18c5's are overrated. don't waste your money, your better off buying a non r spec jdm b18c than the c5. When you buy a swap did you ever consider the fact you get MORE then just the motor? You also get a tranny, ajd with the b18c5 swap comes a EXPENSIVE s80 trans..lastly, for all of those b16 owners that say that they are weak...i think that its your heavy *** car and less than stellar set up that is weak. the 16 is not as bad as poeple think. now, back to the original question...b16, for the simple fact the the 17 is 9.7/1 c.r (half a point lower than a 1st gen 16 and .7 less than a jdm 2nd gen 16) and to get it any higher you'll have to either shave the head and buy cam gears to zero the cam timing in,or, rebuild the block. rebuild? Try swapping pistons, for a DIY'er its just a small task that can be done in a weekend EASILY i've found 17 to feel really soft down low, worse than the 16 in fact. here is a hint for all of the 16 haters, buy the lightest flywheel you can find and then give me a review on the 16. i've beat up a good amount of 18c'd egs with my 16. yes, it was modded, but, the races weren't even close. a good set up makes up for a more expensive, larger displacement engine with no set up. remember that. your 1.6 must pull hella hard, snap my neck yo!.. Ill pull 20 cars on you by 160 with my STOCK b18c crx.... And off a downshift it will be even worse
Originally posted by Pimpin-EL
go b18C....b16s r weak.....all u'll be hearin is revvin....but u wont go anywhere
no b16's are not weak, have you ever been in one in a light car such as a crx? Was the motor strong and running right?...
then maybe you should sell your 16 and spend the extra $3.5K and buy an 18c to go 3 tenths faster?
3 tenths? Its a great deal more then that, maybe if you compare a b18c in a 99 civic si, to a b16 in a crx the b16 will only run 3 tenths, but if weight and driver is the same its a great deal more, and 3.5k? Its far less then that too. Lets get back to reality here
come on man, 18c's are weak. if you are talking real power then you'll have to go lsv the or crv (yeah, yeah, K series ivtec is the bomb, but, i'm sure we aren't looking to spend $10K on a swap) now, that's power, and, its still cheaper to build than buying a jdm 18c. no its not cheaper, and its not anymore power eaither, building a lsv to keep up with a b18c costs just as much if not more (if you dont DIY), and reliabilty is a major issue here
m power (Quote
Originally posted by Pimpin-EL
vtec is gay, imo..... It doesn't reall do all tat much....If i got to do my swap all over again, and loose the vtec, but have a car w/crazy torque.... hmmm... Vtec is fun, unless you plan to build a turbo 10sec car it adds power, look at dyno's. Torque is for burnouts, HP wins races
yeah, o.k. the fastest H cars have vtec. end of story.No that is not true at all, any idea what Vtec eliminators are? And what and when there used for? Research them yeah, you can make non-v motors fast, but, at the expense of your wallet. the b20 is nice, but, not with an ls tranny. if you go b20, you have to either obtain a gsr or sir tranny to enjoy it.....but, good luck sitting on the 401 with an SiR tranny traveling at 130kmh, with your tach licking 5000rpm. are we breaking world speed records here? dont post this garbage please, a jdm y1 tranny, with 15" wheels running 205/60 tires at 5000rpm is doing 159kmh, NOT 130kmhits not fun when you only have 16-1800 more revs before fuel cut off. thats alot of RPM's sir b18c5's are overrated. don't waste your money, your better off buying a non r spec jdm b18c than the c5. When you buy a swap did you ever consider the fact you get MORE then just the motor? You also get a tranny, ajd with the b18c5 swap comes a EXPENSIVE s80 trans..lastly, for all of those b16 owners that say that they are weak...i think that its your heavy *** car and less than stellar set up that is weak. the 16 is not as bad as poeple think. now, back to the original question...b16, for the simple fact the the 17 is 9.7/1 c.r (half a point lower than a 1st gen 16 and .7 less than a jdm 2nd gen 16) and to get it any higher you'll have to either shave the head and buy cam gears to zero the cam timing in,or, rebuild the block. rebuild? Try swapping pistons, for a DIY'er its just a small task that can be done in a weekend EASILY i've found 17 to feel really soft down low, worse than the 16 in fact. here is a hint for all of the 16 haters, buy the lightest flywheel you can find and then give me a review on the 16. i've beat up a good amount of 18c'd egs with my 16. yes, it was modded, but, the races weren't even close. a good set up makes up for a more expensive, larger displacement engine with no set up. remember that. your 1.6 must pull hella hard, snap my neck yo!.. Ill pull 20 cars on you by 160 with my STOCK b18c crx.... And off a downshift it will be even worse
b17
The above is not edited for grammer or spelling. This is TCC not english class.
10-Jan-2005 | 02:32 AM
#42
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,550
From: in the MOSH pit
There is so much BS in this thread 
10-Jan-2005 | 12:30 PM
#43
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 90
From: t-dot
[QUOTE]Originally posted by WayFastWhitie
[B]
This is a good idea, personally im a fan of the LSVtec's. Cheap, efficent and reliable.
Frankenstien swaps arent for the non DIYer's. They get expensive fast if you have a shop build one.
For a LSVTEC... ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, ITR water/oil pump, a aftermarket vtec oil line kit (not some crap you threw together yourself) and good tuning.
As for the comment about why go b18c and run .3 tents faster.. Thats absolute BS. A b18c with P&P and cams, with pr3 pistons on slicks with FULL interior in a crx can hit 12's with OPEN LSD. B16's simply can go that fast for that cheap. And havent you ever heard of potential? B16's have little potential compared to b18c's without major modifications. There is no replacement for displacement, and no im not bench racing. I will post the Vid and slip if you want.
Oh how I love the tech side of things. So your bigging up a LS/VTEC setup with stock B18A/B pistons and low compression with a Vtec head and no oil sqwirters to cool the cast factory pistons to handle high rpm?? Do you think ARP rod bolts in a B18A/B rod is going to take a bad rod to stroke ratio and make it ok to buss to 8200rpm with consistancy and reliabilty??? What you just described was a time bomb that will eventually explode. LS/VTEC's are expensive and sweet when done right with proper rods (Eagle) and a forged piston so oil sqwirters are no longer nessasary along with good balancing of the reciprecating components.
Who cares what a car runs with slicks unless your building a track car. A CRX is the lightest car possible to stuff this engine into, so your not talking about power specifically. your talking about power to WEIGHT otherwise you would have mentioned a full size full weight Teg with that setup. I have seen plenty of CRX's with B16's run 12's with slicks. No rocket science there. Lets get back to the tech side of things and show me proof how much more hp can be yeilded in a daily driven street car cause 90% of people on here are not building track cars with high compression with no interior. B16's can make 200whp too so the difference in street applications is not as catastrophic as people would like to think. Lets keep it real and talk about a daily driven street car and leave the trailor queens on trailors.
[B]
This is a good idea, personally im a fan of the LSVtec's. Cheap, efficent and reliable.
Frankenstien swaps arent for the non DIYer's. They get expensive fast if you have a shop build one.
For a LSVTEC... ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, ITR water/oil pump, a aftermarket vtec oil line kit (not some crap you threw together yourself) and good tuning.
As for the comment about why go b18c and run .3 tents faster.. Thats absolute BS. A b18c with P&P and cams, with pr3 pistons on slicks with FULL interior in a crx can hit 12's with OPEN LSD. B16's simply can go that fast for that cheap. And havent you ever heard of potential? B16's have little potential compared to b18c's without major modifications. There is no replacement for displacement, and no im not bench racing. I will post the Vid and slip if you want.
Oh how I love the tech side of things. So your bigging up a LS/VTEC setup with stock B18A/B pistons and low compression with a Vtec head and no oil sqwirters to cool the cast factory pistons to handle high rpm?? Do you think ARP rod bolts in a B18A/B rod is going to take a bad rod to stroke ratio and make it ok to buss to 8200rpm with consistancy and reliabilty??? What you just described was a time bomb that will eventually explode. LS/VTEC's are expensive and sweet when done right with proper rods (Eagle) and a forged piston so oil sqwirters are no longer nessasary along with good balancing of the reciprecating components.
Who cares what a car runs with slicks unless your building a track car. A CRX is the lightest car possible to stuff this engine into, so your not talking about power specifically. your talking about power to WEIGHT otherwise you would have mentioned a full size full weight Teg with that setup. I have seen plenty of CRX's with B16's run 12's with slicks. No rocket science there. Lets get back to the tech side of things and show me proof how much more hp can be yeilded in a daily driven street car cause 90% of people on here are not building track cars with high compression with no interior. B16's can make 200whp too so the difference in street applications is not as catastrophic as people would like to think. Lets keep it real and talk about a daily driven street car and leave the trailor queens on trailors.
10-Jan-2005 | 01:06 PM
#44
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 537
atleast b16civic knows to keep his lips glued, you bitch. oh welll, the mods deleted my post because the truth hurts......and b16civic is a fraud. i'll stay out of it know, as long as he's doesn't mention my name again. i have enough women in my life already.....
10-Jan-2005 | 03:09 PM
#45
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 284
From: Peterborough
people take your problems else where dont fight on my thread
10-Jan-2005 | 03:59 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
b16civic, is probably the person on the forums that knows most about engines.. so don't be talking **** to him.. he is a guru
10-Jan-2005 | 04:00 PM
#47
this is why I always lock stupid threads right off the bat. it only causes n00bs to come out and run their mouth. whatever b16civic says is right. end of story. he's been around Hondas longer than you've been alive prolly. he takes his work seriously and scientifically. his dyno graphs have proven over and over again that he is the master.
regards,
-bbarbulo
regards,
-bbarbulo
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