Was wondering if i did any harm by doing the following:

removed my caliper and pressed on the brake so the piston comes out...wanted to see if my piston's were seized..but now i saw some brake fluid come out as well.

did i destroy them completly?

how do i push the caliper's back in?

what does it mean when the out brake pad wore faster than the inner ones..meaning the outer and inner were both replaced same time 3 months ago and now the outer is toast but the inner is still brand new?

these are actual NISSIN brakes meaning they were AEM brand..are these bad brakes???

any info would be helpful!!

thanks

Russ

 

your sliders have probably siezed.....

however hearing brake fliud come out of your calipers can't be good

and to push the piston back in channel lock pliers

 

I recommend you get a rebuild kit for the caliper - replace the seals and hone the cylinder wall. I mean, you already have the piston out, so might as well rebuild it. If you don't wanna do that, and the seal looks okay to you, then just clean everything with fresh brake fluid, push the piston back in (I use my hand, but if you are a girl or a sissy you should get the caliper tool to avoid damage). The pad wear can be damaged sliders (just buy a complete new set of sliders) and use anti-seize on them. Also watch how you put the pads in, they should slide easily by hand.... then clean and grease the caliper sliders as well (the bolts that guide the caliper) and inspect them for any wear.

 

do you have a picture of a slider?

where is it on the caliper?

thanks for the info

and oh by the wya it was an AEM brand brake pads and i needed to hammer them in when i first installed them and i think thats the problem.

also i tried pushing the piston in by hand it won't go in...i will try pliers and see what happens!

 

are these front calipers or rears?

cause the rears cannot be pressed in, they need to be turned in.

you'll see a cross on the piston, and you can turn it down by sliding a screw driver in there and twisting it down.

 

item #11 is what you want...if its the rears...

 

its for the fronts

 

then it just pushes in. since you gotta bleed the calipers anyways, I say open the bleeder valve to help you push the piston back in rather than fighting fluid pressure. also, keep pliers away from caliper pistons, if you slip and score a piston, you're looking at a new set of calipers.

 

will try that tomorrow!

also how do i find out wiht my slider is seized? if i press on the brake and the piston does not move outward is that a sign my slider is seized?

thanks once again

Russ

 

Replace the calipers and lube the sliders, the calipers are a lousy 40$ with excange, and do not use antiseize on the caliper slide pins use a lubricant called syl glyde. Antisieze will ballon the rubber seals on the sliders and build up and seize them also. It is cheaper to replace the calipers than to rebuild them.

 

i priced rebuilds at honda, they wanted like 100 bux each...

 

we're talking about two diff't things y0!

I'm talking about the little springy inserts that are between the pad ears and the caliper... you're talking about the sliders on a floating caliper. I wouldn't know anything about that, since I have fixed calipers

 

guys i will need a picture for what to lube and what not to lube.

what to replace and what no to.

i'm doing this for the first time but with pictures it would be a breeze.

so maybe pictures will help tell me my story better.

thanks

 

go grab a service manual... theres even lots to download, threads on this site have links...do a search in discussion... all the pics u will ever need

 

what does it mean if the piston in the front caliper is not willing to go back in?

 

okay i got me a c clamp and tired pusing the caliper in..stil nothing..
what does this mean/...frustrated!!!

 

check PM... as for pics

clean, inspect for damage, and put antiseize on parts 10, 11, 15 and 16. replace any damaged ones (damage is likely if you had trouble putting in the brake pads last time)

lubricate the sliding pins (items 13, 14, 17, 18) and inspect for signs of binding.



basically, so you understand what goes on, a single piston floating caliper works like this:

piston pushes on inner pad, whole caliper SLIDES on bolts number 13,14 - thereby creating equal squeezing pressure on the outer pad. When released, the spring clips 10, 11, 15, 16 move the pads off the rotor surface. If any one of these parts fails, either you get uneven wear between pads, uneven wear on the same pad (ie top wears more than bottom), or warped rotors.

Good luck!

 

thanks for this valuable info

 

u can get a rebuilt caliper for like 20bucks from a rebuilder

 

hey guys... to not start another thread of a similar topic, i'll just follow up in this thread... hope you guys can help me out as well...

i just got my car like a month ago and after working on it for a month, its near completion.... i just put on brand new rotors and pads.... however, my cousin told me that my front caliper might be seized (my question is: i don't quite know what it means and he didn't explain it too well even i asked him what that suppose to mean...)

i want to know what caliper seize exactly mean if anyone can spare some type and explain to me...

also, how do i know if my calipers are seized? i heard that it can be rotor warp or uneven wear of brake pads..... are there any other ways? my cousin has experience with cars, but not with honda (civics), so i want more civic-people advices to be sure...

also, can someone explain how do i bleed the system after i take out the caliper and replace it? i might consider looking for a set of decent used calipers (if possible) or just the front ones to replace it if it did seized... (does anyone have calipers for 92 SI?)

oh yeah, one last quickie, do 92-95 civics all use the same calipers? (maybe same rear, different front, or something like that?) i don't want to be searching for the wrong type of calipers for my 92 SI hatch...

thanks