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can't pass emission... any ideas?

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Old 17-Aug-2004 | 11:40 AM
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Question can't pass emission... any ideas?

i had my car at my mech's shop, and he helped me bring it over to his neighbour shop which does drive clean... but i failed (i don't have the numbers yet), but from what he said, it needs an O2 sensor and a new cat...

question #1:
how much is a new O2 sensor???

question #2:
usually which category on the emission paper fails will indicate its the O2 sensor and/or CAT problem.... i trust my mech, but then, it is safer to know stuff myself so i don't get cheat....

please give me some knowledge... hahaha
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 11:46 AM
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need numbers 1st
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 12:08 PM
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o2 sensors are around $100-$120 and the heated ones are a bit more i believe.... if thats really what you need.... is the mechanic trustworthy?? because alot of them will try to replace stuff that isnt at fault
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 12:12 PM
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you can always bribe emissions guys.
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 12:17 PM
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how old is your car and what are you running motor and exhaust?
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 12:30 PM
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The cat usually only needs to be replaced when it's been wiped out by something else ie. burning coolant, over fueled. C.T. replaces the cat on failures because it almost always passes afterwards, but the new cat won't last until the real problem is solved. By the way,I don't mean every c.t., it seems to only be around here.
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 02:27 PM
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my car is a 1992 SI d16z6 motor...
stock header... when i bought the car... the guy said it was full custom catback exhuast with R1 muffer and 2.25" piping but i did not remember to ask him about which pipe was 2.25" (although i don't completely think this would matter, because it wasn't much of a performance boost since the header was stock and the collector was small)

and about the #s... the guy told me everything failed....
and what i need to do that might increase the chances of passing are
1) clean intake filter (i believe so... because it is dirty like ****)
2) new spark plugs
3) oxygen sensor
4) distributor (i don't know how this thing affects the emission)
5) oil filter (this i understand need to replace while doing a full engine tune-up)

do you guys think these 5 things would get me pass the emission?

also, does the valve cover gasket affects it? because i replaced it... but my crappy buddy did a **** job on it, so its leaking now... he said he used the wrong pcv or wutever glue..... would that be a case too for the emission failing?

other than that, nothing else leaks.....

an additional question is...
should i put the 500 to get new sensor, distributor fixed, new plugs, new intake filter, new oil filter, oil change to increase the chance of passing my next attempt of emission test... or should i grab a performance motor and save the hassle?

i just got a new alternator on the d16z6... don't know if i should put on a new motor after i put on 250 on that alternator...
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 02:36 PM
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you can do the work and save a ton of cash...dont buy a new motor, because this one failed...just needs some TLC....

get the new o2 sensor - 170 from dealer...easy install
change oil - worst case senario, get it changed at oil change place $50
change pcv valve - they didnt sell them a CT when I was looking, goto the dealer pick one up - 20 bucks or so
change plugs - while your at the dealer, pick up the plugs @ like 2.50 ea....cant complain..change em yourself...easy..

after taxes - $287...main one being the o2 sensor. worth the investment...you'll end up doing that to the new motor anyway...

make sure she is running hot next time your running the etest....go for a drive up the highway for 15mins or so, then do the test.

my 2 cents
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 03:25 PM
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If your car is generally running good and you to fail everything i would be definetly be looking at the o2 or cat,more likely the cat.You said you bought it with aftermarket exhaust maybe the cat was punched.The only emision controls you have are the o2 and cat,If your car runs ok i wouldnt waste money on plugs and wires ect.Oil change is recommended but is not your problem.old oil is contaminated from age and engine blow by and circulated into the intake through the PCV,that is why its recommended to change it
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 03:30 PM
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thanks for your 2 cents cet... you're great....

also, do you know normally how much does a full custom exhaust cost for a 2.25" down pipe, 2.25" mid pipe, high flow cat, and a nice muffler straight flow? (or is what i'm thinking does not make sense???)....

btw, a full catback exhaust is different in what ways compare to a normal exhaust? the cat??? (i'm still in the process of upgrading my knowledge so i don't get cheat or say the wrong things in chats with car people)
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 03:38 PM
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a cat back if a system from the converter back,a full system would be that + cat and header.If you dont want to spend a lot of money consider getting a conditional pass.as for price depends how you want to go,custom made or direct fit .
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 03:39 PM
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cat-back exahust is an exhaust system that includes everything from the Catalytic convertor back...etc. all piping/flanges/and muffler/tip...

typically bolt right up to your catalytic convertor

not sure on price for custom exhaust...sorry
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 03:44 PM
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the " exhaust system" is everything that is included to allow you car to expell the emissions that it generates.

When someone says full catback....... it means that the piping from the "cat" all the way to the end (muffler) has been replaced.


when you say normal exhaust...... i think you mean muffler with a BIG TIP!!!!!! lol

hope this helps so you dont sound like a dope infront of the cool car people........
Old 17-Aug-2004 | 05:16 PM
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haha... now i get it... you all explained it quite well, simple, and direct hahaha....

so cat back just means everything from cat all da way to the mufler

full exhaust is including the header, downpipe, cat, and so on to the muffler....

and when it says axle back, it means from the axle to the muffler, the rear axle? hahaha......

what's the collector size of a stock header and downpipe?? 2" or less??
Old 18-Aug-2004 | 04:09 AM
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is drive clean not being phased out?

theres this stuff at crappy tire that claims they'll give you a refund if you use it and you dont pass emissions, meh I think you may just end up taking them up on their refund policy.
Old 19-Aug-2004 | 01:18 AM
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my valve cover gasket and the 4 plug/or something that goes with it are new.... since my friend used the wrong glue to put it on... can i take it off, and re-glue it on again with the pcv glue i get from the honda dealer?
Old 19-Aug-2004 | 10:35 AM
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I agree, Canadian Tire has this additive on sale that claims a guarantee pass in emissions test or they will refund your money or give you double your money. Dont know if they still sell it.

LOL, try that and see if it works!
Old 19-Aug-2004 | 10:46 AM
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Originally posted by t_dot_SiR
.... since my friend used the wrong glue to put it on... can i take it off, and re-glue it on again with the pcv glue i get from the honda dealer?
what is this glue? never heard of that...just got to honda, and get the proper PCV valve for your car........sounds like someone used glue to attached a different PCV valve...yeah, take off the glue, and stick the proper PCV in there...that should solve that problem.
Old 19-Aug-2004 | 12:41 PM
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your not suppose to put n e glue between the gasket and the head.... just make sure its clean..you can put sum between the gasket and the valve cover though...
Old 19-Aug-2004 | 03:34 PM
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after researching... i think i have a clearer idea of what i meant by the glue thing... well... when i bought the car, that seller had the valve cover replaced.... but he did not replace the valve cover gasket... so i went to honda and bought the valve cover gasket and 4 plugs/something for $70-80 after tax... the new valve cover gasket was to prevent oil leakage after replacing the new valve cover, but now its still leaking, so i guess my friend didn't do it a proper job.... it is required some sealant (to seal the valve cover gasket to the valve cover??? not sure...), but i think he used the wrong sealant, that's why oil are still leaking out.... and what my friend used as sealant was something he called pvc glue that we got at CT together... if i get the proper sealant from honda dealer... can i take-off the valve cover gasket from the valve cover and re-seal it again with the proper sealant???


2nd thing... about the pcv valve....... my mech didn't mention about it that it needs replacement... he said main reason my emission fail is most likely to be the o2 sensor failed... and probably the cat was messed... and for sure my plugs needs to be replaced.... how often does a pcv valve need to be replaced??? is it beneficial to do so to help me pass the emission even if it's not suggested to be replace by my mech yet???


last thing i forgot to mention... the last owner had a nos setup in the car (and i mean he did run the nos and boost it before)... will that hurt the cat?

**i'm going to buy the haynes manual later today to study more (since my actuarial exams are over... finally got my summer started).... and i'll be over to the shop to talk to my mech tonight... so i want some feedbacks/opinions/suggestions/2cents asap if you have any....


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