Check Engine Light!!!!!
#22
Yeah...I've seen pics of ECUs before....hopefully I can get the problem diagnosed tomorrow....or else I'll be put putting down to KC tomorrow.
The car runs fine, but the owners manual advises not to drive at high speeds.
The car runs fine, but the owners manual advises not to drive at high speeds.
#23
20W50 is okay for your motor James... it's fuct anyways, you're just trying to keep it together with some oil LOL
I use 5W30 in the Civic, and will consider 5W20 or 0W30 later on just to see a difference. My Saturn runs 10W40 oil since those cars are bad for oil consumption and I drive it a little harder than I do my Civic ... I never noticed any on neither of my saturns. The Samurai will rock 10W30 I think... yes 10W30 sounds good to me
I use 5W30 in the Civic, and will consider 5W20 or 0W30 later on just to see a difference. My Saturn runs 10W40 oil since those cars are bad for oil consumption and I drive it a little harder than I do my Civic ... I never noticed any on neither of my saturns. The Samurai will rock 10W30 I think... yes 10W30 sounds good to me
#24
As for the leak and a resulting CEL... being OBD1, there isn't a secondary O2, so even a cat that fell off wouldn't result in a CEL... maybe you blew out your O2 sensor right out the tailpipe j/k there is nothing you should do with this engine... let it die with dignity, don't put it on life support.
#26
Did you even check to see what code it is.
And, you don't need a code reader, you just need a small wire, maybe an inch long to act as a jumper.
Don't go getting all upset untill you know what the "problem" is.
And, you don't need a code reader, you just need a small wire, maybe an inch long to act as a jumper.
Don't go getting all upset untill you know what the "problem" is.
#27
****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well I took my to the mechanic this morning, and he did exactly what Dan said...he took small wire, hooked it up to the ECU, turned on engine and counted the beeps.
He then checked his Honda manual, and the problem is the VTEC controller switch....its broken.
I should have known better. His first question, was "Have you been burning oil lately?" I said yes, that's why I changed my oil to 20W50.
He said that its way to high a wieght for honda engines...he said at absolute most 10W40.
It all makes perfect sense. As most of us know, VTEC is controlled by oil pressure. With 20W50, the oil pressure I guess is to high/low because of the thickness, so VTEC won't engage.
I might as well change my plate to 1niceDX.
I have no VTEC at all. I must have broken the VTEC switch last night. In my first post of this thread I mentioned that the check engine light came on immediately after I hit 7500RPM. It was telling me that VTEC wasn't working.
So my mechanic unhooked the a fuse to see if would reset itself, but it didn't the light is still on.
I just emptied out all the oil and put in 10W30 with some Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Hopefully I can get VTEC to work again...but I doubt it.
Well I took my to the mechanic this morning, and he did exactly what Dan said...he took small wire, hooked it up to the ECU, turned on engine and counted the beeps.
He then checked his Honda manual, and the problem is the VTEC controller switch....its broken.
I should have known better. His first question, was "Have you been burning oil lately?" I said yes, that's why I changed my oil to 20W50.
He said that its way to high a wieght for honda engines...he said at absolute most 10W40.
It all makes perfect sense. As most of us know, VTEC is controlled by oil pressure. With 20W50, the oil pressure I guess is to high/low because of the thickness, so VTEC won't engage.
I might as well change my plate to 1niceDX.
I have no VTEC at all. I must have broken the VTEC switch last night. In my first post of this thread I mentioned that the check engine light came on immediately after I hit 7500RPM. It was telling me that VTEC wasn't working.
So my mechanic unhooked the a fuse to see if would reset itself, but it didn't the light is still on.
I just emptied out all the oil and put in 10W30 with some Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Hopefully I can get VTEC to work again...but I doubt it.
#28
Didn't you have a spun bearing in addition to the oil burning James?? I'm not sure why you are trying to keep this motor. Did you not see Jugglez has someone with a B18B complete... it's in the members lounge.
#30
I'm not trying to save it....I'll be swapping forsure....I just have to find the right motor for the right price.
Ideally I want to spend $3000 on a motor.
But it might be worth it to get a shop to do the whole job.
Ideally I want to spend $3000 on a motor.
But it might be worth it to get a shop to do the whole job.
#31
B18b1 out of a 2000 Integra .. full engine with both i/e manifolds, OBDII P75 Ecu, '98 Integra GSR Tranny, no grinds.. engine has less than 50,000km and runs well.
mounts and shift linkage are included, however these were modified to fit a CRX, and they weren't modified very well, so you will need to buy new ones.
you will need b-series drive shafts as well which aren't included.
everything else needed for the swap is there.
James.... talk to Duy...it's $1500.
mounts and shift linkage are included, however these were modified to fit a CRX, and they weren't modified very well, so you will need to buy new ones.
you will need b-series drive shafts as well which aren't included.
everything else needed for the swap is there.
James.... talk to Duy...it's $1500.
#34
Ooops, didnt' see the post before PM james.... B16A is the only choice in your price range then... and even then the engine alone costs $3500 to pick up usually... 90ls can get motors BTW, eh also this guy Ralph Bilari (sp?) or something... good guy, but I lost his # when my phone got stolen... he was on the board, but I forget his username.
VTEC is a nice feature, but I guarantee you will love torque.
VTEC is a nice feature, but I guarantee you will love torque.
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