Civic Drum to Disc Conversion
#21
Gatherer, you are the first that ive seen to favor drums over disks, but you make a valid point. Still, I am less interested about the ease of adjustment compared to the stopping power, does anyone feel the same way as gatherer?-----Now, I posted a wtb in the classifides area for a rotor upgrade kit that has turned into a debate about the size of integra and civic front rotors. I was thinking about getting one of those larger rotor kits with the caliper repositioning bracket, then mrcivic18 said to just get intera front disks because the disks were 1" bigger and had better calipers. I dont have my civic with me right now, Im in Iraq, and i dont remember what size rotors that I have. Ive seen else where online that all 92+ civics and 90+ integras have 10.2" brakes, except for ITR. A couple people keyed in and said that civics with rear drums come with 9.5", and 4 wheel disks come with 10.2", and then The Prophet that has a 95 civic coupe (same as me) says that he has 10.2" and drums- wtf. so whats the deal?
#22
Originally posted by ManikOne
Gatherer, you are the first that ive seen to favor drums over disks
Gatherer, you are the first that ive seen to favor drums over disks
well make me the second if you do a search on the subject you will find more than just the 2 of us.
as for stopping power, I guarente you will not notice any difference. only a small percentage of stoping power comes from the back brakes. Think about it, when you hammer the brakes all the weight shifts onto the front wheels... And with rear discs, comes more rim cleaning, and less adjustability...as well as the money, labour, and downtime spent on the conversion... but rear discs "look" cool so its a necesary upgrade on a CIVIC
If you want a worthwhile brake upgrade concentrate on your front rotors, calipers, pads, as well as your master cylender and flex lines... even a good flush and some new fluid will be more benificial.
#25
actually I was all in favour of getting rear discs till I was coverted by the autocross crowd...(those that drive stock to light modded civics)
anyways on to stopping power... 80 to 90% of all stopping will be done with the front brakes... that means next to nothing is done with the rear. so question one is do the small rotors and brakes you can get for the rear do anything to help? answer is maybe but for the cost of the parts I can name a few better uses for the money...
anyways thats not the only reason... I have my brakes setup to come on in the rear slightly before they do in the front... and I've done alot of testing on my setup using torque wrenches to gauge the clamping power of the brakes and all sorts of fun stuff like that ... but the brake Bias can be used to create over steer and understeer conditions as well... turn in tap your brakes and you'll eat grass at the edge of the track. for me with the setup that is adjusted outside stock settings tap the brakes lightly and it's like fully applying your handbrake... no joke you want to see what I like for brake settings show up at a meet and I'll let you sit in the seat and test out the pedal.... it doesn't move very far before full lock... but thats just what I like...
At Autocrosses I have been known to spin... I have been known to do a full opposite lock 4 wheel slide through a corner (lets not discuss which way through a corner is faster .... I know thats not the fast way) and I've been asked by knew people to the sport if I pulled my handbrake at those spots...
my answer is no... I never have and never will pull the hand brake... but they ask because my car acts and behaves like I did pull it... I ran in the stock class this year and in that class you try every trick allowed int he rules to get rotation... I know there are better ways to get it then doing this brake setup or having an extreme difference front to back in shock settings but thats all I could do so I did it.
anyways for more talk on Autocross and track setups feel free to visit the Competition forum. it's located at the top of the TCC discussion forum. have a look ask questions in there and feel free to at least make use of that forum... Please
anyways on to stopping power... 80 to 90% of all stopping will be done with the front brakes... that means next to nothing is done with the rear. so question one is do the small rotors and brakes you can get for the rear do anything to help? answer is maybe but for the cost of the parts I can name a few better uses for the money...
anyways thats not the only reason... I have my brakes setup to come on in the rear slightly before they do in the front... and I've done alot of testing on my setup using torque wrenches to gauge the clamping power of the brakes and all sorts of fun stuff like that ... but the brake Bias can be used to create over steer and understeer conditions as well... turn in tap your brakes and you'll eat grass at the edge of the track. for me with the setup that is adjusted outside stock settings tap the brakes lightly and it's like fully applying your handbrake... no joke you want to see what I like for brake settings show up at a meet and I'll let you sit in the seat and test out the pedal.... it doesn't move very far before full lock... but thats just what I like...
At Autocrosses I have been known to spin... I have been known to do a full opposite lock 4 wheel slide through a corner (lets not discuss which way through a corner is faster .... I know thats not the fast way) and I've been asked by knew people to the sport if I pulled my handbrake at those spots...
my answer is no... I never have and never will pull the hand brake... but they ask because my car acts and behaves like I did pull it... I ran in the stock class this year and in that class you try every trick allowed int he rules to get rotation... I know there are better ways to get it then doing this brake setup or having an extreme difference front to back in shock settings but thats all I could do so I did it.
anyways for more talk on Autocross and track setups feel free to visit the Competition forum. it's located at the top of the TCC discussion forum. have a look ask questions in there and feel free to at least make use of that forum... Please
#26
Originally posted by ManikOne
Yeah, looks are also important, that may be the kicker for me.
Yeah, looks are also important, that may be the kicker for me.
(not discounting the importance of looks... hell ask me about my Stereo system dreams one day )
#27
gahterer, i know what you mean, i like my rear brakes to kick in sooner too. i used to drive around with my e-brake handle up to a few clicks before they made contact when i was going on a joyride, its chetto but it worked very well~~~ and no, looks are not my concern here, so there is no place for this in the ex mods section, i was just saying that if im still unsure that the rear discs would help serve a purpose for me at all, then the fact that they look way better too might waver me a little. does anyone know about the civic/integra rotor size question?
#28
I favor disc's personally...
IMO disc's are easier to service...and thats what I wanted
its an easy install as Bruno states, and if your planning on on changing the rears, why not change out the fronts too. Get GSR fronts and rears, prop valve and booster, and I guarentee you will FEEL the difference.
IMO disc's are easier to service...and thats what I wanted
its an easy install as Bruno states, and if your planning on on changing the rears, why not change out the fronts too. Get GSR fronts and rears, prop valve and booster, and I guarentee you will FEEL the difference.
#29
My idea was to achieve a close balance on braking by using a better disc on the front with a softer pad + OEM rotor with a harder metalic pad on the rear. I think this can increase the rear braking power and create a little more oversteer to reduce understeer.
That setting will be companied with 26/22 sway bars and suspension setting could be set up 3/4 on the track. But if metalic pads are not used, then I might go 3/5 settting on the track.
My car oversteers daily.
That setting will be companied with 26/22 sway bars and suspension setting could be set up 3/4 on the track. But if metalic pads are not used, then I might go 3/5 settting on the track.
My car oversteers daily.
#30
Originally posted by bbarbulo
gatherer, that's what a Wilwood prop valve is for
vernier
micrometer
dial indicator
I have all Mitytoyo digital measuring devices... but often I'm just not inclined to use them
gatherer, that's what a Wilwood prop valve is for
vernier
micrometer
dial indicator
I have all Mitytoyo digital measuring devices... but often I'm just not inclined to use them
even then, i stick with cheaper measuring equipment
just as accurate and 1/10th the price
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