I changed the distributor cap/rotor little less than a year ago (friend did it, never done it myself). Today I heard what sounded like a squeaky belt from the engine. I checked and it sounded like it was coming from the distributor cap. Figured I'd go get another cap/rotor and do the job myself.

Took off from a light and the engine light came on...got on the on-ramp for the highway and the car shutoff. I pulled over and got it to start after about 3 tries. Brought it home...took off the cap and there was red dust everywhere (and very few metal shavings). I scraped off what I could so the contacts were pretty clean. Didn't know if that was normal or not so I called up a friend and he said the red dust means "the bearings on my shaft are going". Sounds like french to me. He explained that I could drive it around for a while but look into replacing the whole distributor pretty soon.

After I cleaned off the contacts the car hasn't shut off but if I rev it and let the rpm's drop it'll go down to what looks like 100-200rpm and stutter. Squeaking noise is still there but it's not AS constant and it seems to be a bit fainter.

Anybody have any other opinions or suggestions?

 

i dont really have any help but my buddy recently had his disributor seize on him..... it was brutal had to tow it home.... luckily he had another one at home but its a pain if it happens

 

Seems I may have to follow this thread up with one in the classifieds for a new distributor then

 

i had that happen to me once.....i started the car to warm up, it was this past winter then after a few minutes the engine shut off. wouldnt start again. checked everything......fuel press., checked if i was getting spark....turns out it was the distributor. got a rebuilt one at jap used auto parts at eglinton and mc cowan for $145.00 + core. hope this helps.

 

Thanks. Don't fully understand what you mean by "+ core" though. But at least I have an idea of what price ranges I'm looking at here.

 

"+ core" means they keep your old parts

 

Cool. Thanks.
I shouldn't get charged more than 1hr labor for something like this, right?

 

You shouldn't be charged more than 5 minutes labor for this job Dreggs. When replacing the entire unit there really is nothing to it...

Also, if you can't make it all the way to McCowen you can go to Don's Auto Electric on the corner of Weston and Eglington... he can help you too.

 

That is within walking distance from my place. Is it across the street from the Scotiabank?? Which corner is it on?

 

South West Corner...looks like a dump but dam...these guys have anything and everything electronic for a car.

 

Good old "squeal of death" from the distributor.
The dry bearing inside the housing has failed like so many Honda's in the past. It's a normal thing, and will probably happen to everyone else on this board from time to time.

If your planning to keep the car for a while, do yourself a favour and get a new distributor sub-assembly from Honda. It might be slightly pricier compared to a used unit, but do you know how long that one is going to last you? Maybe 1 year down the road, you'll be replacing it again.

Installation is a sinch, just make sure they don't mix up the fire order, and set your timing properly.

 

I had the same problem with my old Civic just before I sold it. As mentioned above, it is the bearing in the distributor. I ended up getting a rebuilt unit as I was selling the car for around $400. A new assembly from Honda is around $800 if I remember correctly.

Good luck.

 

I just replaced my distributor for $320 + taxes.

 

Damn mine is starting to squeak too ... I don't suppose I can drive with it for a bit before I get it fixed can I?

 

are you sure?? 99 is too new to have this problem. check yourself before you wreck your wallet or wait... you got that seriously high mileage 99, right?? in that case... look for a used one on car-part.com

 

Actually I have a JDM b16A2 Swap, so the motor is a bit older then 99. I was just checking out some of the prices. Are the JDM b16 Distributors the same as the b16A2 that we have here?

 

an A2 swap must be at least 99-00 cuz those were the only years they were produced in. and it can't be JDM

check the code again, and use the distributor that is correct for your ECU type (OBD1 or 2)

 

Sorry My mistake ... its a 2nd Gen JDM B16 hence why I put B16A2 .... but the Code on the engine just says B16. The distributor is an OBD 1. So I think I just answered my own question. The a B16A2 distrubitor from a SIR wouldn't work... But I am assuming a Distributor from a 92-95 DOHC Del Sol Would?

 

yeah the 92-95 DOHC VTEC dizzy should work. now... the 94-95 GSR dizzy SHOULD also work, but honestly just wait for one of the b-series guys to step in cuz I dunno for sure...

 

so you have a 2nd gen b16a in a 99 civic, did you convert the car to obd1?
Does your distributor have 2 plugs (obd1) or 1 big plug (obd2)?
Anyways, don't go out and buy a new dizzy from honda for $500 for just a housing and no coil, ignitor, etc, you can just replace the bearing. But when taking apart the assembly BE CAREFUL not to damage the oil seal! There is no part number for this or any way to get it b/c it is a half size, fortunately that is not the case for the bearing. The bearing can be purchased from any bearing supplier for $25. Its as if Honda intentionally made it a half size so you couldn't just replace the bearing and seal.
OR the more expensive but easier route, and what i did about 3 months ago, b/c i damaged the oil seal while diassembling the dizzy, when the bearing in my b16a dizzy took a ****. Go find the first DOHC VTEC dizzy in the classified, which can be had for $150-$200. Cut the plug(s) off and just solder and shrink wrap the wires. I am using an obd2 gsr dizzy on my 93 b16a (obd1) in my 95 civic.