Distributor problem
#21
Oh and Moe Mentum you prolly don't want to wait until the bearing fails b/c the dizzy is attached to the intake camshaft so if the bearing seizes lets just say bad stuff will happen.
When i finally replaced mine, b/c the squealing got incredibly loud within the matter of days, i was driving home from work and it got real loud, thankfully i live about 8 minutes from work. I parked the car and didn't drive it until i got the new dizzy. When i put the new one in I couldn't even spin the old one holding it in a vice.
So imagine if i had tried to start the car with the old dizzy.
When i finally replaced mine, b/c the squealing got incredibly loud within the matter of days, i was driving home from work and it got real loud, thankfully i live about 8 minutes from work. I parked the car and didn't drive it until i got the new dizzy. When i put the new one in I couldn't even spin the old one holding it in a vice.
So imagine if i had tried to start the car with the old dizzy.
#22
That is correct its a 92-95 Engine in my 99 and its converted to ODB-I The Dizzy has two plugs from what I remember. Alright, so far I checked out some prices, I was able to find a place that is selling new ones made by Mitsubishi for $150.. Quite the amazing price, going to check it out tomorow. Place is called Tiger Japanese Auto Parts... ANyone have any experiences with them? Thanks for the Tip Zeeman on the bearing, if I trusted myself more with that kind of stuff I might have tried it.
#23
Thanks again Zeeman! I'll be replacing it Tomorow for Sure... Never replaced one before, by the looks of it, its just 3 bolt and 2 plugs. I think I read in another post something about checking your timing.. Is this necessary?
#24
its recommended that you check the ignition timing with a timing light. But, if you make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC, which is done by lining up the mark on the crank pulley, before you take off the distributor and make sure that the rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire on the new dizzy before you put it in, usually denoted by a C or a number 1 with a circle around it you should be fine. I've used this method many times and have even checked afterwards with a timing light and it was dead on.
#26
Originally posted by b16civic
my distributor went this week end on the way home from performance world, red dust in the cap and lots of copper wire bits too.
my distributor went this week end on the way home from performance world, red dust in the cap and lots of copper wire bits too.
#30
Alright back on the topic of installing my new distributor. I am a bit confused as to how to turn the crank pulley so that I can get it TDC for the installation of the new distributor. Can anyone clarify this more for me?
#31
Originally posted by zeeman
its recommended that you check the ignition timing with a timing light. But, if you make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC, which is done by lining up the mark on the crank pulley, before you take off the distributor and make sure that the rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire on the new dizzy before you put it in, usually denoted by a C or a number 1 with a circle around it you should be fine. I've used this method many times and have even checked afterwards with a timing light and it was dead on.
its recommended that you check the ignition timing with a timing light. But, if you make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC, which is done by lining up the mark on the crank pulley, before you take off the distributor and make sure that the rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire on the new dizzy before you put it in, usually denoted by a C or a number 1 with a circle around it you should be fine. I've used this method many times and have even checked afterwards with a timing light and it was dead on.
Alright then so does this above quote not apply then? Now I'm more confused
#32
disagree on this one...
the dizzy may go in one way, but the shaft can spin freely.
so what you do is have sex with yourself hella times to relieve tension. then you get the #1 cyl to TDC by turning the crank pulley (remove spark plugs, remove timing belt cover) then align it so that #1 comes to TDC on the compression stroke (all valves closed ... if you need more info, check out your Helms or Haynes manuals) then you point the rotor of the dizzy to the #1 tower of the cap and you slip the dizzy into the hole. then you bust out the timing light, bridge the service connector and set your base timing to factory spec.
the other, ghetto way to do it is to mark the position of the rotor and the dizzy body before removing the original dizzy. then when you put the new one in, you put it in the exact same location, and then set your base timing again with a timing light.
the dizzy may go in one way, but the shaft can spin freely.
so what you do is have sex with yourself hella times to relieve tension. then you get the #1 cyl to TDC by turning the crank pulley (remove spark plugs, remove timing belt cover) then align it so that #1 comes to TDC on the compression stroke (all valves closed ... if you need more info, check out your Helms or Haynes manuals) then you point the rotor of the dizzy to the #1 tower of the cap and you slip the dizzy into the hole. then you bust out the timing light, bridge the service connector and set your base timing to factory spec.
the other, ghetto way to do it is to mark the position of the rotor and the dizzy body before removing the original dizzy. then when you put the new one in, you put it in the exact same location, and then set your base timing again with a timing light.
#34
haha that's right!! Steve is totally correct... I should have remembered from my Prelude and Civics. brilliant! I just remember I fuct it up one time on my Samurai and I got the dizzy inverted 180 degrees.... so i just switched the wires around instead hehe... dirty trick
hey... you ever get the oil analysed after using regrind cams steve??
hey... you ever get the oil analysed after using regrind cams steve??
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