well I agree with you here hmmm 50 lbs... maybe I should about removing wieght from the car to reduce the 50 pounds over the front wheels ... I've always wanted an h22 but I think that dart block is ver very tempting....


as it was explained to me (in computer type terms I understand) in the computer world you won't normally go out and by a system (like a compaq or a HP) you would to get the best bang for the buck... go out and buy individual components so that you get the system you want.... I think thats the best way to get the engine I want ... so I'm going to go out and get a dart block... probably at the end of summer I dunno yet... yes I'm going to get a block thats made in detroit.... wow thats like blasphemy.. but I think I'll build an engine with all aftermarket parts I think it'll be interesting ...but it will be to my specs...which is the good part...

I'm still entertaining Ideas however

 

Is winning the lotto one of these ideas

 

well winning the lotto is stage 1 of whatever plan I do ...

I'm thinking of selling myself into slavery to pay for all this ... taking offers..

a man can only go so far as his dreams will let him... I need big dreams..

 

any one else with opinions on the type of engine I should build... still welcoming suggestions.... and opinions...

 

If money is no object...then I say B18C5 - USDM ITR.

If you want cheap fun with excellent everything....then I'd have to say D16Z6 with a slightly beefy bottom end and a really small turbocharger for mid range boost. (I'd say a T3 would be good)

If you want to be unique, then a 10K rpm screamer would be the way to go with a D16Z6 base, and custom rods and pistons and 11:1 compression.

 

B16A1 block (with OEM oil cooler)
Resleeved and bored to 84-86 mm
custom t-top guards
B17A crank, mild knife edging
eagle rods
medium compression pistons
New ARP bolts&studs all around
completely balanced and blue printed
b18c1 head
turbo cams
turbo-race prep (pnp)
re-worked combustion chambers
thicker head gasket (safer)
custom turbo kit

you'll need a very good engine builder for this type of setup.. the head/combustion chambers will need to be re-worked extensively to achieve a good compression ratio while maintaining reliability on the street. proper dome hieght pistons would be another consideration.. a c.r. in the 9.8:1 range would be great for daily driving while running a mild ic'd turbo setup boosting 8psi... add a standalone and some upgrades and you can tune a drag program for 15-20+psi .. probably even more

the b17a crank will get you an r/s of 1.68:1 so you could rev pretty high consistently without having to throw money towards safety measures.. and you can use B16A rods... no custom work on the rods... overall displacement will be in the 1.8L range.

oh yeah, this setup won't come cheap .. and there are pros and cons with all setups...you wanted a unique suggestion so i gave you one.. good luck!

 

or I would also go for the B18C1. I personally like the H22 and the B18C5 setups . I would definetly scratch out the d16. The b20 is a good swap if cash is a major issue. So it all comes down to how much cash you have to play with. If cash isn't the issue B18C5 or h22. If money is a bit of an issue then B18C1. If money is a big issue then B20

 

interesting....thanks for the ideas....I'm still interested in more...bbarbulo ...10K screamer...what would you suggest I'd need to do to maintain reliability with that and would I be loosing the low end? what would you do to the engine to get it ready for the 10K screaming? would the crank have to be destroked? or would a stock crank work for the 10K red line?

Jugglez thats a very interesting setup...I'm sure I could trust the engine builders on this site to be able to do it...what if that crank was de stroked to give a rod/storke ratio of 1.8 or so? what sort of red line would I be able to have?

 

de-stroke an engine and you'll lose displacement.. if you want near perfect r/s just stick with a B16a .. resleeve it and slap on a big dirty turbo... but remember boost loves displacement, which the b16a lacks... so i mean you'll have to make compromises on some ends to achieve a well rounded motor for your goals.

 

Well, a 10K screamer would be a great race engine, and it would be reliable too. I'd drive like stock, return 32-35 miles per gallon, and still idle at the light without overheating. You just have to tune, tune, tune. Take a D16 block, take a D15 crank, have B18 rods mcahined to size, get custom pistons from ENDYN (the old one), have a 5 angle valve job done with OEM valves (machined around the base), get JG or Skunk springs, Ti retainers, new OEM gaskets, and a Gude/Bullfrog cam, a cam sprocket, get your injectors replaced with b18c1 units, 4-1 header, OEM B16A cat, Type R muffler, manifold should be exude honed, t/b replaced with a larger unit (maybe a B16A2 would fit?), GSR fuel pump, MSD ignition box, NGK plugs + MSD wires, a Del Sol modified air box (DOHC VTEC Del Sol), K&N element, ported oil pump, oil cooler, DOHC VTEC Del Sol radiator .... if you tune everything correctly, using a Apexi V-FAC, you will have a Honda reliable ride (this is kind of the idea behind when they build Spoon and JUN N-1 competition civics) with about 140-150 hp at the wheels. You can prolly find a stroker kit for it somewhere if you want the easy way out. But pretty much, the reliability comes down to the machining and assembly work. If you botch that... it'll run like crap. You're pretty much building a motorcycle-like engine here.

 

Destroking means you're giving up displacement.... but that means absolutely nothing. What you are REALLY giving up is torque...for the advantage of a 10K redline

Big dirty turbo is best on a B18B no doubt! Displacement (more than B18C), lower compression, and really cheap to buy!!

 

Torque owns...More displacement means more quench area which is better for boost. a 10 k redline isn't practical on the street. For an all-out drag car definately.. for a daily driven car torque is everything...

 

No, the 10K screamer would make a great circuit car, like N-1 endurance racing. I just think it would be cool to build it and put it in a 4th gen hatch It would be a good daily driver since it would drive just like a stock civic until you hit 6000 rpm....and then you rip from there for another 4000 rpm. When I first got a EX cluster in my car with a tach...the discovery of an extra 1500 rpm was a miracle for me...it was like I got an engine swap done cuz before that I only ran it to under 6000 cuz the engine sounded like it was already at redline. (I didn't wanna test it ) I think finding an extra 4000 rpm after the initial 6000 would be hella cool. But I you'd have to screw around with the final drive too.

 

see we're comparing 2 totally different setups for different purposes.

a high redline would be nice and fun for sure, but if you're sacrificng torque it will only take you longer to reach the rev limit. I dunno about those gude cams either, would they even make power up to 10K? i remember back in the days of PH the general consensus was "Gude = Bad"

 

Anyone at PH use Gude cams?? They were the first to make cams for Honda D16s in north america I think. They were the isht back in the day when I first started in the import scene (circa 1995). Well, I'm sure there are other cams out there to choose from. It's just a suggestion. I know Comp Cams are the bomb for domestic V8s.

 

wow that was alot of info ....ok the car is going to be daily driven and I understand what BBarbulo is saying .... but at the same time ... it would be nice to have say the 350 whp that octaneteddy has I just don't wanna copy a design I want original too ....I'm I was on the board the old one ..and TOO says something along the lines of RPM = ruins peoples motors.... so maybe a 10k redlien should be reduced to a torque monstor or something...

 

Regrinds are something to consider, it's a process that's really catching on. the non-VTEC B-series gain quite a bit from stage 2 regrinds..

 

what does a regrind do for the cam?

 

Changes specs to make it more aggressive .. this is more for a N/A setup.. if you go turbo you wnat mild turbo-sepcific cams...

 

A regrind takes your original cam, then regrinds it to new specs, taking metal where it needs taking, and adding where it needs to add. Problem with regrinds is that they lose the original heat treatment which makes them wear more quickly than should be. Brand new blanks are the way to go like Comp Cams does it. Regrinds isn't a new process "catching on", it's an old process that the import scene recently heard about.

N/A cams have to allow for exhaust scavenging and excellent charge velocity. Turbo cams don't cuz the charge is pressurized, so they have to open wide (bigger lift) for a shorter period of time, and they have to release exhaust efficiently to let the turbo spool. But you really can't say until you test the head and cams on a flow bench.