Fuel filter replacement
#2
The bottom bolt is a mother ffffuuu.........eerrrr!!!!!!!!
S/b done every 70k
Costs 32 bux @ honda (use OEM only)
Loosen gas cap to relieve pressure. Place shop towel under filter cuz some fuel will pour out. Use a 19mm and a 14mm when doing the bottom bolt. 17mm & 19mm when doing the top bolt. Un-bolt bracket from fire wall (3x10mm's) Replace filter. Change washers, make sure everything is snug and tight.
Start her up and check if theres any leaking.
Good luck on that bottom bolt.........mine was seized like a bitch. I stuck a ratchet between the bracket and the firewall for support when loosening the bolts.
S/b done every 70k
Costs 32 bux @ honda (use OEM only)
Loosen gas cap to relieve pressure. Place shop towel under filter cuz some fuel will pour out. Use a 19mm and a 14mm when doing the bottom bolt. 17mm & 19mm when doing the top bolt. Un-bolt bracket from fire wall (3x10mm's) Replace filter. Change washers, make sure everything is snug and tight.
Start her up and check if theres any leaking.
Good luck on that bottom bolt.........mine was seized like a bitch. I stuck a ratchet between the bracket and the firewall for support when loosening the bolts.
#3
It kinda hard to explain but anyways, the top bolt will have a hole through it, about a quater of an inch. You have to match the hole in the bolt to the actual fuel line, when you take it apart you'll know what im talking about. Thats the only hard part. If your still confused let me know.
#7
Thanks again for the advice, it worked like a charm. By the way Lurker, lining up the hole in the banjo bolt with the fuel line is not necessary as the inside of the fuel feed pipe connection has a groove that allows the fuel to circulate and find its way into the fuel line. Next time you take it apart have a look.
#8
Originally posted by colinc
Thanks again for the advice, it worked like a charm. By the way Lurker, lining up the hole in the banjo bolt with the fuel line is not necessary as the inside of the fuel feed pipe connection has a groove that allows the fuel to circulate and find its way into the fuel line. Next time you take it apart have a look.
Thanks again for the advice, it worked like a charm. By the way Lurker, lining up the hole in the banjo bolt with the fuel line is not necessary as the inside of the fuel feed pipe connection has a groove that allows the fuel to circulate and find its way into the fuel line. Next time you take it apart have a look.
#9
I know this is an old post but my question pertains to fuel filter replacement so I thought why not use an old thread instead of creating a new one and clutter the forum.
Basically what I need to know is if the fuel filter NEEDS to be replaced every 70k or so. I had mine replaced 5 years ago back at 70K. I have 162K on the car now and haven’t replaced the filter since. The problem I have now is that the car shakes a bit at speeds over 110km/h so I thought it could be the plugs or wires (which are 2 years old) but could it also be the filter? I am even getting poor gas mileage now (7.8 – 8.0L / 100km). What do you think?
Basically what I need to know is if the fuel filter NEEDS to be replaced every 70k or so. I had mine replaced 5 years ago back at 70K. I have 162K on the car now and haven’t replaced the filter since. The problem I have now is that the car shakes a bit at speeds over 110km/h so I thought it could be the plugs or wires (which are 2 years old) but could it also be the filter? I am even getting poor gas mileage now (7.8 – 8.0L / 100km). What do you think?
#12
Originally posted by bbarbulo
Use orange teflon tape to prevent this from happening next time dented I did my fuel press gauge install, and I had to use the teflon tape.
Use orange teflon tape to prevent this from happening next time dented I did my fuel press gauge install, and I had to use the teflon tape.
#14
Get some Loctite fuel system sealant. The bottle I have came over the counter at my local GM dealership.
Edit:
Try these as well
1)Loctite PST 592 thread sealant
2)Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant
3)Permatex® High Performance Thread Sealant
Edit:
Try these as well
1)Loctite PST 592 thread sealant
2)Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant
3)Permatex® High Performance Thread Sealant
#16
Not sure what you guys are talking about. I am not going to replace the filter myself. All I wanted to know is if based on the symptoms I see on my car if I have to replace the filter or not and if not replacing it for so long can cause the problems I'm having now.
#20
I dont think your filter has anything to do with the shaking, it's probably a tire or suspension issue. For the the rough idle just change your plugs (and wires) and see if it goes away first..if the problem is still there then try the filter and so on...