Ive still got drums in the back, if u have the cash the TEG brake upgrade is well worth it, but just getting crossdrilled rotors and good pads will aslo do the job.(u have an si right?)

 

No, thats not what i was saying at all.
Thats why the H2B adapter is such a good idea, its allows you to use a tranny with better gearing (i.e. a B-series).
It also allows people with b-series swaps to go H-series without having to change everything again.

 

yea i have an SI, im going with some new rotors and pads, but i think ill keep the rear drums for awhile!

 

H&R Sports would be fine, good shocks would help eliminate the bounce, especially since H&R makes Sports and Race in Integra application, where the rates are said to be just a tiny bit stiffer. You suspension (with good shocks) should handle that H22 ok since its also said to only weight something like 65lbs more then the B16 on many threads on honda-tech.com

I'd get better brakes and make sure I had good shocks to go with those H&R Sport. The Sports may lower an tiny amount more with the extra weight, but its all shock to eliminate the bounce. Bounce means the shocks is under dampened or over dampened, for example stock shocks with H&R sports = under dampened. Koni Yellow on full stiff with H&R sport = way over dampened.

 

id like to keep my h&r's and maybe upgrade my shocks to save money but i think my h&r's are coming up on some high mileage. the ride is pretty good with just stock shocks, but i havent hit anything hard enough to break a strut. if i do i think thats when im going full coils. plus my front sags alot more than my rear, and that was just with the b16

 

im running skunk2 coil with stock shocks! its not bad coz skunk is pretty stiff....a little bounce to it but not to the point where you rub on humps or anything like it!!! i also upgraded my front brakes with drilled rotors and hawks pads!!! rear is still drums but everything new....

the other thing you should look at is rear sway bar!!(if you have it ignore what im saying) but it really helps a lot!! good luck with the swap!!!!

 

thanks alot, i dont have one but i will definitley look into it, do you have aftermarket LCA's?

 

ive got them, they dont do much, there lighter, thats about all.

 

For the rear EK's are predrilled for a rear sway bar.

 

how much do rear sway bars go for, and where could i pick one up?

 

kyb coils and gas shocks are nice and stiff and everything is full adjustable. you can pick up a set for 600-650.

 

yup!!its plug and play!!! not unless your bolt are seized then you'll need a new bushing then find a shop that will press it for you!!! look around here they go for 60-100 bills with end links and d brackets...markpa is right lca's is for looks and they are light weight thats about it!!! you wont feel any difference once you put them!!! but the rear sway bar you will trust me on this one!!! you know what since you live in sauga!! im close to square one maybe we can meet up one day and ill show you how fun to drive a deuce deuce ek and an all motor deuce deuce on a accord!!!my boy is running an h22 port and polish with skunk2 stage 2 head on spoon ecu(original from japan) on his 95 accord sedan(sleeper) boy can this thing pull!!!!! i mean pull!!! btw good luck with everything

 

sway bars used can go for $120-$175 for a 22mm rear sway bar. Don't forget the buy subframe reinforcement in the form of atleast a Beaks kit. ASR or Comptech is much better though. Also you'll need end-links, I recommend RSX-S end-links.

The large rear sway bar is an amazing upgrade, but some caution should be taken while learning these new limits.

Nothing will aid handling like a great set of tires though...and i'm not talking cheap V or Z rated like Fuzion.

You can grab a sway bar off the classifieds section if you watch for it.

22m is from the ITR or CTR, 23mm (rare) is from the JDM ITR. Also worth noting 19mm RSX-S will work too.

 

thanks guys, all your help is appreciated. my next little confusion i have its rims and tires, im leaning towards 15, maybe 16's. what is a good offset for these wheels and some tires to wrap them in, my buddy has 15's, they look great but he has alot of tire on them. what do people preffer out there 15 or 16's?

 

I've got an EG hatch with an H22, honestly the motor isn't that much heavier than a b-series, it's like 50 pounds more, but I would recommend getting a stiff spring and shock. I'm riding on H&R Race springs with Koni reds and it's fine. As for braking power, definetly one of the first things on the list. I've got GSR brakes up front and my rear stock SI disks in the back and I have trouble stopping. I couldn't imagine what it's like with stock civic brakes and drums in the rear. So upgrading is definetly a must. as for rims don't do a crazy offset and grab a 15" tire with anywhere from (185-205)-(50-60)15R. That's a pretty ideal tire and with that motor ake sure you got sum good high performance rubber. I', running Toyo Proxies t1-S and I still spin like crazy. Especially launching anything above 2500 rpm is too high and that's using a high performance tire.

 

hey thanks alot for the info. yea im going for a 15 '' wheel wrapped in 205 50 15r, and i definetly look into the brake upgrade first. im gonna go kvr slotted rotars with the carbon pads for now!

 

Is your swap done already? If not i sugegst you change your clutch now, I had to pull my motor last week, to change it.

 

yea, its done, im picking it up on monday. why did you clutch go? and how long did you drive it before it went?

 

So you do have to pull the engine out to change the clutch?

 

If u have access to a hoist u might be able to, get the tranny off, but its a tight tight fit, it was easier for me just to pull the motor out compeltely, I dont have a hoist, and limited space in the driveway.