here is my delema, I own a BRAND SPAKING NEW 99 JDM B16II motor with hydro/lsd transmission. all mint with less then 30K on it. its so cleanyou cean eat off it. I could give my motor +1000 for H22 swap...but the motor has more Km obviously and requres allot of work for install.

should I just turbo the B16? I was thinking this casue the condition is amazing, low km so the compression will be high, and even threwout the cylenders. I know ALL about how the B16 is not the right motor to turbo...casue of high compresison, but that means it just takes lower PSI to get results.

idd turbo the motor STOCK, so idd do MAX 7-8 PSI. which should give me around 240-250 WHP.

what would you do? get h22 stock or spend a bit more and have turbo...

 

i know one thing, and that is that this thread is in the wrong forum !

 

b16 nice and light so you can still carve up the streets. Turbo will take up the slack of its low torque numbers.

I see your dilema tho, both setups have their pluses and minus. The h22 might be more reliable depending on its condition, Id do a leakdown / compression test on the h22 and see whats up.

 

oh man i read up in " HOW TO BUILD HONDA HORSEPOWER "

they installed a LOW BUCK turbo on it, the Turbo came off a ford mustang or T-bird early years when they were running the 2.3L

this turbo costed them $850 USD ( this turbo going in a delsol )

stock internals.

before they installed the turbo, the B16 was equipped AEM intake,DC sports header.... dynoed at 153whp.

w/ low buck turbo ( T3 turbo not intercooled )
@ 6psi - 214whp produced 153ft-lbs with gains available at 2700RPM

@10psi ( installed a air to air intercooler coming from a Supra )
fuel system was changed with a T-rex fuel pump, after tuning

it pushed 275 whp, 201ft-lbs all from 1.6L
the turbo motored oushed right near 190ft-lbs from 5500rpm all the way to 7500rpm, all the powergains weren't post VTEC either.

running the 10PSI, Torque improved 60-65ft-lbs all the way down at 4000rpm, a good 50ft-lbs was availableas low as 3500rpm.

so i wouldnt really say a B16 wouldnt be good to turbo.. anything is possible with good tuning. ( id say the results are impressive for this LOW buck turbo.

 

turbo it and jsut get a solid kit with a good! fuel and spark managment system...minimum would be vafc injectors and a msd BTM to cut timing under boost..but best woudl be injectors with a hondata..or a haltek...hondata woudl be great..! you can make 230--240 whp easily with a good setup on a stock b16 bottom end

 

yeah TURBO it and POP your motor.. you can't expect reliability when turboing a stock motor. I can only imagine the turbo lag from kits like this.

now when u say 1000+ for h22, does taht include the FULL INSTALL? if so that's good..

Think sensibly here.. What's practical for you? Can you afford to do all this stuff people suggest on the b16? Can you afford the Gas a Turbo B16 would suck? Do you really think you'd be able to support all the costs incase something blows..

The H22 in my opinion is a solid setup which produces more than enough power to keep most people happy.. Bolt-ons and you'd be able to get 13's.. On top of that, you keep honda reliability and normal driving gives you incredible gas mileage.. I got 500+/tank in the summer, and that was with hitting vtec quite a lot.

Don't make a mistake and just go for the option that produces the most power.. you really gotta think about everything..

 

Cablerat is RIGHT!!

 

I totally hear ya, the +1000 was for just the motor, idd have to take mine out and put that in, its ALLOT of work, I dont have the means to do it..but can try...I wuld not get itinstalled somewhere as I dont have that coin.


im discouraged to do it as of right now becuase of the condition of my motor compred to that. my motor looks like you poped the hood of car for the first time. this motor is beyond mint and has 20-30 K actual KM on it. The h22 is already out, I cant test it, the valvecover paint is chipping which means higher km then normal....maybe 80+

I feel if I turbo a basically brand new jdm sir motor and not go crazy with it. doing 7 psi it wont give me much, if any problems at all.and yess idd get everything to make it work well fuel and spark management wise. the gas does not bother me.

 

I agree with what has been said, however theres other issues at hand.

What it boils down to is your budget.
If you have money to spend then a turbo is the best way to put down serious power, just requires the right tunning and fuel management and proper care.

If your looking to turbo something, you should get an LS, handles turbo much better on a stock vs stock situation with a B16.


And it just so happens I have an LS swap available for you I'd take that B16 off your hands for you

 

how much diff is the gas when u turbo? when not in boost isnt gas milage better?

my cousin might buy a hatch and turbo a b16...with a t3 turbo at 8psi wat kind of gains can he get with a stock motor do u think??

a guy my friend knows named andy had 400whp to the wheels all summer..stock motor, he is an excellent tuner and will be doing mine and my cousins cars!

 

basically this is how it works
stock b16 makes 160hp for every 14.7 pounds of boost u add, add another 160 or double it for every 1bar of boost

 

To turbo a motor, do up your motor in the N/A form first to raise a certain amount of power.

Then run 1 bar of boost to double that HP. Sounds simple, and it really is when you have the resources and money to spend. Good luck

 

turbo

there are many reliable B16A turbos running about... there is nothing to be skurred of if you got the endz to do it right.

 

So say i had a B16a with internals already!
Port n polish head
Crane Springs and retainers
Skunk 2 stgII cams
Skunk 2 Chip / Mugen chip
AEM cam gears
ITR intake manifold with bored out throttle body

that was all for my N/A setup!

So what Nova Dust is saying i can just add a turbo to this?? is this tru?? how well is the turbo gonna work? and reliability?

 

On top of that, you need to sleeve your block so it can handle boost (depends on how much you want).

Turbo needs a good tuning. All engines do.

 

NA cams are not favourable to turbos. Also, you'd want low compression pistons and some more serious rods. You don't have to sleeve it if you are conservative in your power.

 

Are u feeling ok dude..what do u mean "do up ur motor in n/a form first"?? I hate it when people mis-inform everyone....get ur facts straight before trying to help someone and lead them down the wrong path!!!!

lets see....do up your motor in n/a form first!!???

1. raise cmpression...good for n/a,...bad...very bad for turbo(high compression motors can be turbo'd but I won't recommend it...)...u want low compression ..this way u can add more boost without blowing ur **** apart

2. stage 1 2 or 3 cams!!....very good to make power with n/a...eventhough stage 2 and 3 are not really streetable(ur car will not idle)....not good for turbo...too much overlap and duration

3. lets see...what else....short or cold air intake....useless once turbo setup is installed

4. Header....again..good for n/a...useless for turbo

5. performance exhaust....u can retain some components but u wil lhave to modify a lot....ie...downpipe. Also ..it would be ideal for a 3" or even bigger diameter exhaust with a turbo application. the less the backpressure..the better..(less spool up time)

.....I can go on....I don't mean to rag on Nova...but ur miss informing people!!

 

haha, didn't even see that post.

well, basically you want high lift cams with short duration and almost no overlap. I mean, you don't wanna be bleeding off boost through open valves

 

What I meant by NA form was... port and polish stuff, bigger TB, the type of upgrade that is shared between NA and FI.

I am stupid, don't listen to me.

 

well, I know what you were trying to say... it just came across wrong. Even a P&P would be different between NA and turbo cars. In NA you wanna keep the runners small but smooth it out, with boost you wanna enlarge them more than you would for NA. T-body you are absolutely right about that... exhaust - with turbo the bigger the better - not so with NA. That's why my car's been "stock" for 5 years cuz I knew it would be a B-series or a huffer - so none of the parts would carry over.