to start off i have neuspeed race springs... with my stock tires and no camber kit i have no rub.... so everything is fine....

but when i put my much wider 15's on it does rub.... only when hte wheel is turned all the way but it still rubs....

so i've been thinking of ways i could keep the super stiff springs... but not be so low....

so the best idea i've come up with so far is to take the top hats of the spring/shock assembly.... cut off the threaded rods at the top... then weld in some longer ones... maybe 3/4".... then make some plates that are 3/4" thick that will fit between the bottom of the wheel well and the top of the "top hat".... so in effect it would raise my car a little so i can use my wider tires....

i doubt anyone has done this but i'm just wondering if there is anything i have not thought of regarding this mod.... ie things that will break or otherwise have a negative effect...

 

the main problem i can see from this is that it wont raise the car atall but just compress the spring more so effectively i'd be at the same place.... but then i think that the spring would have the same amount of weight on it so it would raise...

any thoughts?

 

I think it would raise the car if you welded longer thread rod onto the top hat ... however by doing this your wieght balance shifts more towards the front ... which you might not want to do ....

 

BTW what size are you tires?

 

where does it rub, what offset rims, and what size tire (brand too). I don't see a problem with that. Don't use threaded rod threaded rod is generally the worst quality hardware you can buy. For a project like this use Grade 8 hardware. It is commonly done on MacPhearson strut cars to increase wheel travel to the top of the wheel well. On a dbl wishbone, I can't see it being a problem, but you will likely change the alignment slightly. I wouldn't do it.

 

maybe be you could jsut not sit the strut in the lower part as far in. but maybe that would just slide down after time

 

go with a smaller offset rim and get a camber kit it might help
or get coil overs and lift your car

 

i dont know where it rubs... .but its only when the wheel is turned all the way to the right.... from the marks i've seen on the fender liner its the inside of the tire doing it....

the tires are 195-50-r15... perrelli something... they are toast anyways.... i'm going to be getting some kumho 712's in 195-45-r15 to hopefully help out.... make the gearing a little better to

but ya i wouldn't actually be useing that threaded rod they sell at home depot or such.... i was going to just weld some sort of bar and thread it myself.... or just cut the head off a bolt and do that....

i am going to be getting a camber kit probably within the next 2 weeks anyways so the alignment being out from this isn't a problem... technically its out as we speak so i need one regardless....

to mattharper: i tried that one already.... the shock will eventually make its way back down.... no matter how tight that bolt is :cry::cry:

 

Punk.... whats the offset on your rims?

 

i haven't a clue... i dont even know the make of them.... actually i think you were at that meet when i brought then out....

but ya no clue on the offset.... is that an easily measured thing? they are sitting my basement i could check

 

put white shoe polish on the edges of your tires so when u turn the white polish is transferd to the fender so u can see the point of rubbing, and go from there.

 

CDN Tire has this rubber bracket that fits in between each coil of the spring to prevent it from going down too far and making it stiffer

 

such a simple but fantastic idea....
gotta love those tricks of the trade

 

well i can see where the tire is rubbing from all the marks on the fender liner....

and trust me those springs dont need to get any stiffer


i think i'm gonna take a stab at it this weekend

 

i was measuring today... if i can get the front up 1/2" then i am in business.... and i should have enough bolt left on the top to pull it off.... so we'll see how it goes....

 

does it rub on the outside, or inside, , if inside just get spacers.

 

ok Punk we can have you measure back spacing on the rim then and the width of the rim...

ok if you know the width of the rim your 1 step a head of the game... now do this

put the rim outside down (on the ground on a table on a floor whatever) then take a straight edge and lay it across the lip of the rim so that it intersects the center of the circle that the lip makes (doesn't have to be exact)

second get a plumb line (you know string with a pointy wieght on the end) and hang it down so that the wieght barely touches the surface of the back of the rim (the part that connects to the wheel hub. measure that distance in inches. (from the lower edge of the straight edge to the surface of the part of the rim that connects to the hub.

ok you just measured back spacing.

now to calculate offset

first take the width of the wheel and divide by 2.

then take backspacing and subtract the 1/2 wheel width figure. if the number is negative you have a negative offset if the number is positive you have a positive offset. convert the inches measurement you come up with to mm. then post on the board.

 

take out ur engine, then the front will be higher. Your mom likes it in the rear end though

 

your not helping....

 

how about i just take your mom out to mcdonalds for dinner, since she is so cheap and easy that is all it would take for her pants to drop....


on a serious note... i'm gonna go check those rims now so we'll see what they are....