Problem Installing new KVR Rotors and Pads
#1
Problem Installing new KVR Rotors and Pads
I'm doing a front brake job with the KVR pads and rotors and I'm also installing new/re-manufactured calipers.
I've got everything put on and I go to swing down the caliper over the new pads and it just won't fit over them. the side of the caliper without the piston won't fit over the outside brake pad. If I remove the pad shim I can force the caliper down and into place but it's so tight I can no longer turn the hub.
Any ideas? I've gone onto the KVR and the caliper rebuilding companies website and verified all the part numbers, they all look right.
anybody else have a similar problem? Any suggestions?
Thanks
Matt
I've got everything put on and I go to swing down the caliper over the new pads and it just won't fit over them. the side of the caliper without the piston won't fit over the outside brake pad. If I remove the pad shim I can force the caliper down and into place but it's so tight I can no longer turn the hub.
Any ideas? I've gone onto the KVR and the caliper rebuilding companies website and verified all the part numbers, they all look right.
anybody else have a similar problem? Any suggestions?
Thanks
Matt
#2
what kind of calipers did you get? i had a similar problem when i swapped my front brakes to sir. the pads i wanted to put on were too thick and the caliper wouldn't clear them. i recommend you to check the pads part number to double check that's the right pad for your calipers.
#4
I've verified the part #'s for the pads, rotors, and calipers on the companies websites they are all right.
I just went to can. tire and compared the thickness of their pads to the thickess of the KVRs and they are the same.
The cylinder is pushed in all the way, and I've slid the caliper all the way over.
It doesn't make any sense, I'm going to check it over again and if I can't make it any better I may have to force it over (I don't have to use a hammer or anything I just have to push it down by hand fairly hard and not use the pad shim on the outside pad)
I just went to can. tire and compared the thickness of their pads to the thickess of the KVRs and they are the same.
The cylinder is pushed in all the way, and I've slid the caliper all the way over.
It doesn't make any sense, I'm going to check it over again and if I can't make it any better I may have to force it over (I don't have to use a hammer or anything I just have to push it down by hand fairly hard and not use the pad shim on the outside pad)
#5
Don't worry about the shims....I put mine on without them and my brakes work fine (KVR's btw...same as you).
Just make sure the caliper piston is all the way in...try using a large pair of channel locks to do that, cause if your only pushing it in by hand, it may not be enough foce to fully compress it.
If you've replaced the calipers, don't forget to bleed them and when you first startthe car up when your done, pump the brake pedal until the feel comes back before you move the car.
Good luck.
Just make sure the caliper piston is all the way in...try using a large pair of channel locks to do that, cause if your only pushing it in by hand, it may not be enough foce to fully compress it.
If you've replaced the calipers, don't forget to bleed them and when you first startthe car up when your done, pump the brake pedal until the feel comes back before you move the car.
Good luck.
#6
Thanks, for all the replies.
When I went back out, I decided to try the right side, everything fit perfect on that side. I compared the thickness of the rotors and pads on the left and right side they are identical. So that only leaves the new left caliper as the problem.
I forced the left caliper down, bolted everything up, bled the brakes and went for a drive. It feels good, Stopping power is good and not having warped rotors anymore is great.
When I got back I jacked up the left front and there is still quite a lot of drag on that wheel. I'm not sure if I should be worried about the pads glazing or the rotors warping from the friction/heat
When I went back out, I decided to try the right side, everything fit perfect on that side. I compared the thickness of the rotors and pads on the left and right side they are identical. So that only leaves the new left caliper as the problem.
I forced the left caliper down, bolted everything up, bled the brakes and went for a drive. It feels good, Stopping power is good and not having warped rotors anymore is great.
When I got back I jacked up the left front and there is still quite a lot of drag on that wheel. I'm not sure if I should be worried about the pads glazing or the rotors warping from the friction/heat
#7
The new right and left caliper looked exactly the same (other then being mirror images). And the new ones looked the same as the old ones.
One thing I did notice though was the C #'s didnt really match
Old Left - C7
Old Right - C4
New Left - C1 (doesn't fit right)
New Right - C7 (Fits Perfect)
I'm not sure if these number mean anything or not?
Thanks
One thing I did notice though was the C #'s didnt really match
Old Left - C7
Old Right - C4
New Left - C1 (doesn't fit right)
New Right - C7 (Fits Perfect)
I'm not sure if these number mean anything or not?
Thanks
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