Rear Lower Control Arm and Strut
#1
Rear Lower Control Arm and Strut
Hey,
Well I finally got around to dropping my car, everything in place and all set to go. I finish putting the shocks/springs onto the front and the rear left, but when I get to the the rear right hand side, I had a hell of a time getting that bolt that connects the rear lower control arm and the shock. Now after trying everything I could, I took the car, which by the way is lopsided, to an auto shop, they tried an impact wrench at it and still nothing. So they finally welded on a nut to the head of the bolt. Now I know what is wrong, the stupid bushing and bolt are basically stuck together. The only way around that is to now replace the busing and that stupid *** bolt. Has anybody else ever had this problem? I will be changing back to stock in the winter, but is this scenario commen? Finally, should there be any problem driving for a few days with three wheels dropped and one on stock height?
Thanx
Well I finally got around to dropping my car, everything in place and all set to go. I finish putting the shocks/springs onto the front and the rear left, but when I get to the the rear right hand side, I had a hell of a time getting that bolt that connects the rear lower control arm and the shock. Now after trying everything I could, I took the car, which by the way is lopsided, to an auto shop, they tried an impact wrench at it and still nothing. So they finally welded on a nut to the head of the bolt. Now I know what is wrong, the stupid bushing and bolt are basically stuck together. The only way around that is to now replace the busing and that stupid *** bolt. Has anybody else ever had this problem? I will be changing back to stock in the winter, but is this scenario commen? Finally, should there be any problem driving for a few days with three wheels dropped and one on stock height?
Thanx
#4
i couldn't even budge the LCA bolts that connect to the shock... i wasn't changing shocks at the time so i just dropped the whole LCA (the other two bolts were not seized) ... then i got two new LCA's for when i do change shocks.... without a torch i dont think its possible to get those bolts out
#5
Joker --> I went with the KYB AGX and Eibach Pro Kit setup, so a 1.5 in the front, and 1.3 in the back.
Its funny, cuz the one on the left was a breeze, came off no problem, just required some strength, and it was off, this one was just being a pain in the ***. Well I don't have to torch the ***** off, but what I found is that it was just stuck to the bushing, so going to have to replace the bushing too now. I don't plan on driving it much, just to class one day, which is couple of km's away, but yeah it does look funny as hell, looks like I'm driving with a jack on that one side of my car.
Do you guys no newhere I can get bushings for this car ('99 Sedan), Honda sells them for like $24 over here, but for a rubber piece? If not, I guess I'll just go with the $24.
Thanx
Its funny, cuz the one on the left was a breeze, came off no problem, just required some strength, and it was off, this one was just being a pain in the ***. Well I don't have to torch the ***** off, but what I found is that it was just stuck to the bushing, so going to have to replace the bushing too now. I don't plan on driving it much, just to class one day, which is couple of km's away, but yeah it does look funny as hell, looks like I'm driving with a jack on that one side of my car.
Do you guys no newhere I can get bushings for this car ('99 Sedan), Honda sells them for like $24 over here, but for a rubber piece? If not, I guess I'll just go with the $24.
Thanx
#6
same thing happened to me i was using a jimmy bar and ended up snapping the head of the bolt off
wasn't to big of problem thou cause i as replacing the control arms with type r control arms
xenon_194 try cracking the nut off control arm use like a dremal tool just to cut thou weld then it shoud turn off the bolt
wasn't to big of problem thou cause i as replacing the control arms with type r control arms
xenon_194 try cracking the nut off control arm use like a dremal tool just to cut thou weld then it shoud turn off the bolt
#7
Well I got the shop people to get the bolt moving, but the thing is that its pulling the stupid bushing along with it, cuz the two are joined together, basically like the busing has melted onto the bolt, so I'm gonna have to replace the bushing newho. I was just wondering does this happen a lot, like if I do it now, will this happen to me when I change it back for winter?
#8
if you get it off once it shouldn't be to bad getting it off again... those bolts carry a lot of force when cornering so they are very strong bolts.... mine are beyond coming out.... but i just got new LCA's for the new shocks so its ok....
#14
this is a very common problem with the rear shock bolt...most of the time you can just torch the welded nut off the shock fork, then punch out the bolt, and then replace with new nut and bolt, and bushing....
I feel your frustration...its a bitch when you cant get things finished when you want to...
I feel your frustration...its a bitch when you cant get things finished when you want to...
#15
lol, some lca bolts I have taken out were ok, I disassembled an 1990 integra rs for rear disc brakes, and had no problem, same with the 92 civic SI, and the 89 civic SI....
dunno what you guys are doing =) j/k
dunno what you guys are doing =) j/k
#18
typical,. and on all the cars I have done I had the same prob, but only a few I was lucky and the bolt wasn't stuck on one or 2 sides.
I get them off though by taking off the 2 bolts at the end of the LCA arm, the one that connects to the frame and other to the drum assembly, there usually not stuck.
I get them off though by taking off the 2 bolts at the end of the LCA arm, the one that connects to the frame and other to the drum assembly, there usually not stuck.