would a s2pro2 cam be too much for a b18c5? shouldi go with pro 1 instead? thx

 

what is the purpose for the car? street, track, weekend racer? what is your goal for power? what other mods are done already? i'd say stick with the oem bumpsticks, they are pretty decent already.

 

well i know someone using S1P1s on his mild gsr build with pretty good results. He does say that they're a little too much cam for the street though, he said the idle is crap, but they make hella power throughout the whole powerband.
S2P2's would definately be too much cam.
Lots of people have good sucess with Jun cams on their ITRs, whatever you do make sure to get a good valvetrain that can handle the added lift of aftermarket cams, some adjustable cam gears to dial the cams in really well, all of the bolt-ons to make sure your engine cam breathe its best....and of course....tuning. You might wanna think about upgrading to some bigger injectors too.

 

you are not ready for pro1's......and yes...i'm speaking from experience. try a set of Blox b/s2s2's w/full VT for stock idle characteristics and heavy steam up top.

 

Pro 1's will idle fine they are just very picky apparently they will barely run without a good tune

I woudl say if you think they are too much cam and your car idles bad you have a horrible tune

pro 1's will be good for you setup

pro 2's will need more compression and you will more than likely have to spin it past 9000 rpm before the cam will come to life

throw pro 1's in and get a good tune


I would say get a good header before you throw cams in so get the most out of them

get header 2.5 exhaust hondata or crome then get cams

 

do you own a set of P1's? lollllll....will idle fine? compared to what? P1's don't even idle when the car is cold. to be honest, P1's are too big, and P2's should even be installed into a longblock that has an unported head, less than 84mm and less than i'd say 12.5/1 c.r. bigger is not better. trust me on this one. P1's make power, but, they do not in any way have oem idling characteristics. warm or cold. tuned or untuned. they require 14.7-15.0/1 afr @ idle and 23-24 degrees timing just to stay alive. like i said blox b w/VT and you'll be happy. plus blox b's are like $375US.

 

lol man are you a total vag or what

wtf do you want outta a cam? wtf do you think is gonna happen wiht a agressive cam

stick to ctr cams then

a set of pro 1's will do you fine as well as blox b's which apparently are skunk s2's basically or bc III or toda b's

pro1's are a pretty aggressive cam but not too bad from the specs

you should get your **** tuned better if you car is barely running dude

yes pro 2's would probobly make less power on your setup

 

wow....24 degrees btdc at idle....sounds like very picky cams.
I believe neetronics tuned m_powers car and made nice numbers.
My cams have agressive non vtec lobes and others have complained about the idle, but mine is fine and i'm running 16 degrees btdc at idle and about 14.7-15.0 afr and IN +1 EXH -2 on the cam gears. But my cams are in no way like S2P1's.

 

I've run both stage1's and Pro2's. No idle issues. Period. Must be something wrong with the build or tuner!

The drivability of these is significantly better than stock. The low cam is built for more power (not worried about emissions) - the car will pull much harder at 3000k than any other b18c.

Remember what vtec is about - two cam profiles - one for high powerband and one for low powerband. The pro series sets the low cam for max torque as it doesn't try to meet any emission requirement - the only thing that would affect this would be cam timing, but you'd be building this for the street so why would you tune the cams for 10000rpm peak power. Trust me, I have a set. The idle is smoother than my new stock WRX STi.

FYI, the Pro2 (and stage 1's) were in a b18c1 with itr pistons (12:1CR) decked block, shaved p&p head, pro springs, ti retainers, skunk2 intake manifold, 64mm throttle body, short ram intake, chipped ecu (same chip that was in my b16a four years earlier) with field fuel controller, type r injectors, mugen 4-2-1 header, WS exhaust, type r tranny. Nothing special - simple built, exceptional results - 13 second car on street tires, even driven in winter with no idle and drivability issues in the cold.

 

are you on crack? pro 1's have huge primaries. there is little to no vacuum at idle. this has nothing to do with tuning. my car idles fine, its just lopey. but, when cold, it surges until the motor reaches proper operating temp. i'm not talking when your needles moves 2 minutes after start up. i'm talking 6-8 minutes, which is annoying to say the least. what do i expect out of a cam? JUN 3's are some of the, if not the baddest offshelf non-custom cam available. do they idle like stock? yes. why? bcuz they have ITR primaries..which idle like stock. S2S1/S2/S3 also all use stock primaries. and, S2P2's are easier to tune (at idle) than its P1 counterpart. in order to obtain better low speed power (S2P1/P2, BC3+/4), the primary cam is larger than normal which sacrifices idle quality for low speed tq. i'm going to keep it simple. sorry for the vague description. i don't know what type of techno babble you speak of when referring to blox b is apparently skunk or bc3 toda b foolishness. bcuz i know what you don't. Bc4/S2S2/Blox b all use the same vtec cam profile. Blox B/S2S2 are the exact same profile. BC 4's are just a completely different beast that makes the most power. why (seeing that they use the same vtec cam profile)? beside a revised cam lobe design (which skunk copied for all of there Pro series cams), they sacrificed idle quality for increased lift and duration which translates into hp & tq. get it yet? the Pro cams are not designed to idle, they just make make power. non pro skunks were designed to idle and make less low speed power. study cam profiles b4 you assume things, Junior. lastly, where did u buy your Pro 1's??????? clown

 

yep, 23-24 degrees timing @ idle, 14.7-15.0/1 afr, 1200rpm idle speed. and even then its still choppy. yeah, its holds steady, but, its just different. unless you have a set, you just don't understand, yo. i even used a bin file that Tbone sent me for the P1's and its the same. they just don't idle like stock, str8 up. hey, i need my other car tuned. can you handle the 140whp obd0 b16 winter beater? holla

 

OBD0? another EF?
I've got turboedit and BRE on my laptop, so i can help you out.

 

14.7-15 a/f at idle... my understanding from group A, these cams like to be run a little richer. Mine were running a/f of 13's max. They ran smooth like butter - both stage1 and pro2's.

 

ok, i got the sk2 pro 1 cam, pro seris camgear, ti-retainers and valve spring, anythiing else i should get before i put these on? i m gonna try doing everything at once, currently i have a DC headers and aem intake, should i get a throttle body and intake manifold too? bigger injectors, fuel pumps/regulator??

thx

 

there is absolutely no way those cams were degreed in and idled at 13.x/1 afr. impossible. i was with my tuner for over 10 hours of tuning (2 sessions) and they do not like anything in the 13's. there are many tuners in the US that can attest to this.

Edit: i just noticed you said p2's. they actually idle better than the P1's

L_K- i hope your compression is in the 11.8+/1 area, and, you have a very good header. p1's need the right mods to support the profile. if your set up is mild, BC3+ is a much better choice.