Get a manual if you are going to do your valves. Follow it CLOSELY. This is one job you don't want to fugg up.
To reset your ECU, yank the positive wire off your battery, then step on the brake to get rid of any remaining charge. Takes 10 seconds.
IMHO, you don't have to do your injectors. Throw some injector cleaner through every couple of tanks.
Stick with stock plug wires, they are NGKs, just not blue.
Remove your power steering - that is good for 4 lb/ft right there.

 

how do you advance the timing? would this do anything good for my d15?

 

There are three 12mm bolts on the distributor, loosen those.
Get a timing gun, attach it to power and the #1 spark plug wire.
depending on the car, you may need to jumper the service connector.
Bring the car up to normal operating temp.
Idle it, and point the gun at the crank pulley. There are three marks on the edge of the pulley. Rotate the dist untile the timing marks line up with the first mark. That will set it at 18 degrees advance.
Go for a rip...

 

If you detect any knock, go back and turn the timing back 1 or 2 degrees and go for another rip. If no knock, leave it, if you get knock pull the timing back some more. Also, you should really be doing this on 94 octane, and in the future only run 94 octane else you will turn your pistons into a pile of crumpled up tin foil.

 

damn, this sounds a little technical.. , ill try resetting the ecu first

 

Pretty straight forward if you get yourself a manual. Really takes 30 seconds.

 

if i was to set it at 18 degrees, what would i exspect ?

 

Don't know what numbers you would get, but you would notice it.

 

ok cool, ill have to look into this for the weekend....................

 

if you don't do it right you can expect severe detonation and a blown engine.

 

 

Advanced timing is not for amateurs to play with. But if you know about detonation and ignition timing, etc... then it can be done with great success. Don't let my warning turn you off tuning, it is just a warning so you know... think of it as a FYI

 

Hey now, you're gonna freak the dude out...
These engines only have 9.4:1 compression, and he is only throwing it forward by 2 degrees. If you are really concerned, bump up to mid-grade.
I still find more power on 89 octane though...

 

Right, but if he doesn't know his engine is detonating... or he has the stereo cranked... BOOM...cluck, ckunk, cluck, clunk... Hello? Leitner... I have this blown engine I was wondering if you could rebuild? LOL jokes...

 

i advanced the timing myself...and the car seems to pick up slightly better...but i didnt know i SHOULD be running 94 octane... i really cant tell the difference between 87 and 94.....ill try 94 next time to see...

getting the valves adjusted today...ill ask my mechanic to advance my timing properly...when i did mine i turned about 2-4mm counter clockwise...

gettin new spark plugs today too...iridium okay?

 

Nope, stick to copper... search for a thread about best plugs for SiR I think it was... few weeks back

 

NGK ZFR5F-11 with a gap of 0.044" as per the ngk website

 

Copper is better, fer sher.
Try 89 octane, should work fine. Run as low an octane rating as you can before the engine pings. That will yield the most power and will lower emissions.
Before everyone jumps all over me, this is why:
Octane slows the burn, thereby eliminating pre-detonation(pinging). If you get a lower octane, the flamefront will travel quicker and result in a more complete burn.
I should mention that this is FACT. Regardless of what petro-companies' marketing programs say...

 

100% agreed donesixer... I always tell ppl, lower octane burns cleaner and more violently. Higher octane is less volitile.

 

bruno where did you learn all this about octane and burnign etc, is it general knowledge or is there some wicked web site out there with all this knowledge.