Steve im wondering what state the block would need to be in to have it honed, cleaned etc. I am gonna take it all apart and im wondering how far shops usually like to have the block taken apart. I am gonna remove basically everything except maybe some of the brackets on the side.

 

send pm, or ill punch u out next time

 

why^^? we can all learn from his answer, maybe lead into a discussion...

 

yeah im tryin to promote some discussion on here, get people thinking and get away from the typical "can i get 300whp with stock clutch on a MAD TIGHT JDM SWAP?" threads lol.

 

lol, that was funny, i laughed when i read that

 

almost as funny as ur face?

 

^^ LMAO!

 

nope

 

Chris, normally you should take EVERYTHING off the block, then have it cleaned and hot tanked. Sometimes it also gets magnafluxed for cracks. then it's bored and honed, decked... and whatever else you're gonna do. then you take it back and clean the crap out of it with some warm water and dish soap, then you oil the cylinders down... then you take the best taps and dies you have and you chase every thread on the block (actually you should paint it before you do this, in case you get paint in one of the tapped holes). Once you have it all chased, you wash the block again with soapy water and re-oil the cylinder walls, then blow every hole out with compressed air. And your block will be ready for assembly.

 

ill stop by the shop sometimes this week steve cause i wanna talk to you about some stuff and also see how the cars running after the tune.

The block is really gunky so its gonna need a good freakin cleanin. Basically im hoping i can remove the crank, pistons, oil pump today and anything else i can unbolt and then take it up to concepts and have it cleaned honed etc. What im unsure of is how much and where to get the plugs for the holes in the block.

Im gonna paint the block, head, tranny and oil pan navy blue and the VC ill do in black cause thats hopefully the colors the car will be in the near future.

 

Chris, don't owrry about plugging the holes until you paint the block.

Packing them full of grease will do the trick when you go to paint the block. Either that or pieces of newspaper, but then you'll have to pick it out with small picks and such, which is a bit of a PITA if you don't have patience. Try grease first.

 

there are plugs oil holes i believe in the block, i was just reading on the prep stages for cleaning last nite.

Can i re-use my oem pistons or do i need to get another set. Where is a good place to get new rings and should I go oversize or would there be more of a chance of leaking if i have the block bored to 81.5 and used oversized rings?

 

punching the block 20 over you can still prolly use the stock pistons and just use rings that are 20 over. dunno what that is in mm, this is my old V8 gearhead talking here.

 

engines are engines:P

Im having a bitch of a time getting the freakin oil pimp housing cover off.....stupid old engine. I got one of the pistons out but the second piston i tried freakin i cant grip the rod cap enough to pull it off, ahhhhh

 

20 thou over on the bore with original OEM bore size pistons? I don't quite think that's the greatest idea. As if honda engines don't have enough piston slap in the cold...

 

that's why I said, that's old V8 knowledge... I dunno about Honda pistons and so on since I wanna stay stock bore.

 

I thought when rebuilding an engine it was good to at the very least bore the cylinders to 81.25 to make sure they were straight.

im having a hell of a time getting this damn oil pump housing off, is it usually like adheared to the block and requires some good force cause ive hit it a few times with a rubber mallet and nothing.

 

make sure to bagg all your bolts and label parts... Im sure you already doing this tho some people get excited and rip engines apart. then time to rebuild...sifting through a coffee can of mixed nuts and bolts is enough to say **** it and throw it all in the trash lol

 

oh for sure, every bolt is labelled where its from and what hole it came from so everything goes back to its rightful place.

 

chris, the mcmaster part # for the hose is 5285K35 for rubber and 5296K41 for silicone or 5296K42

sorry i took this long to tell ya