stock eagle talon turbo on a eg civic?
16-Dec-2002 | 03:37 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 743
stock eagle talon turbo on a eg civic?
will a stock eagle talon/mitsubitshi eclipse turbo work on a eg civic?
just wondering...my friend told me about this and i want to know if it will work?
and how much $$$ will it cost.
what parts will i need to build this custom turbo...
and how much more hp will i get out of my dx engine?
just wondering...my friend told me about this and i want to know if it will work?
and how much $$$ will it cost.
what parts will i need to build this custom turbo...
and how much more hp will i get out of my dx engine?
16-Dec-2002 | 04:00 PM
#4
If you are even asking this question, you shouldn't be doing this...or any custom setup for that matter. Anyone who's got the knowledge to do a custom setup would not be asking this. Not trying to make you feel bad, I'm just trying to save you money. It's easy to throw the parts together, but whether it will fit, how driveable it will be, and how long it's gonna last are other considerations. Do yourself a favour, and stay away from it.
To answer your question, any turbo can physically be placed on any engine. Whether the flow characteristics of the turbo will match those of the given engine is a question for an engineer to figure out...not you. There are relatively complex mathematical equations that determine flow requirements/capacities. All you need to physically hook up a turbo is a exhaust manifold that on the one end will attach to your head, and on the other will accept the turbo exhaust flange. You will need a custom down pipe w/ O2 sensor bung, and you will need a filter for the turbo inlet, then some custom piping from the compressed air side to your intake (intercooling optional). Now, the turbo is physically mounted, but you have to run an oil line for the bearing...and an oil return line has to be tapped into your oilpan. Depending on your turbo, you may also need water lines to cool it. Then, you need a wastegate (internal or external), and perhaps a BOV (depending on boost levels). Ok, so now it will spin and compress air, but will it run? Well, not really....at a certain RPM, as boost builds, the ECU will determine that the MAP sensor has gone outside of it's parameters and is therefore messed up, so it will throw a code at you and run in "limp home" mode. So you have to fool the ECU into thinking the MAP sensor is reading what it expects it to read...so you need a circuit for that...that is assuming that your MAP sensor is even capable of reading boost...most are up to 7psi. After that, you need a new MAP. Then, once you've hidden the boost from the ECU, you have to somehow apply more fuel to feed the leaned out engine (detonation prone). So you can use a boost dependent fuel pressure riser like one from Vortec or Jackson Racing, and a good high volume high pressure pump. Give enough pressure, your injectors will stick wide open and will fail...this happens at about 80% duty cycle for most injectors...so you should really put in bigger injectors like those from a B16A. Also, you can place an additional injector in line to provide extra fuel with the air....and hook it up to a extra injector controller. Safe, easy way to do it. Also, you need to boost ignition output a little, and go to one range cooler spark plug. Retard timing as much as you can, then as you tune, turn it up slowly till you hear ping, then back off 1 degree. Use only high quality 94 octane fuel. A J&S safeguard would be a nice addition. You can use a manual or electronic boost controller...your choice. EGT or Air/Fuel gauge is important, and boost gauge is almost essential. Anything I forgot for a basic setup guys?? Fill in the blanks....
To answer your question, any turbo can physically be placed on any engine. Whether the flow characteristics of the turbo will match those of the given engine is a question for an engineer to figure out...not you. There are relatively complex mathematical equations that determine flow requirements/capacities. All you need to physically hook up a turbo is a exhaust manifold that on the one end will attach to your head, and on the other will accept the turbo exhaust flange. You will need a custom down pipe w/ O2 sensor bung, and you will need a filter for the turbo inlet, then some custom piping from the compressed air side to your intake (intercooling optional). Now, the turbo is physically mounted, but you have to run an oil line for the bearing...and an oil return line has to be tapped into your oilpan. Depending on your turbo, you may also need water lines to cool it. Then, you need a wastegate (internal or external), and perhaps a BOV (depending on boost levels). Ok, so now it will spin and compress air, but will it run? Well, not really....at a certain RPM, as boost builds, the ECU will determine that the MAP sensor has gone outside of it's parameters and is therefore messed up, so it will throw a code at you and run in "limp home" mode. So you have to fool the ECU into thinking the MAP sensor is reading what it expects it to read...so you need a circuit for that...that is assuming that your MAP sensor is even capable of reading boost...most are up to 7psi. After that, you need a new MAP. Then, once you've hidden the boost from the ECU, you have to somehow apply more fuel to feed the leaned out engine (detonation prone). So you can use a boost dependent fuel pressure riser like one from Vortec or Jackson Racing, and a good high volume high pressure pump. Give enough pressure, your injectors will stick wide open and will fail...this happens at about 80% duty cycle for most injectors...so you should really put in bigger injectors like those from a B16A. Also, you can place an additional injector in line to provide extra fuel with the air....and hook it up to a extra injector controller. Safe, easy way to do it. Also, you need to boost ignition output a little, and go to one range cooler spark plug. Retard timing as much as you can, then as you tune, turn it up slowly till you hear ping, then back off 1 degree. Use only high quality 94 octane fuel. A J&S safeguard would be a nice addition. You can use a manual or electronic boost controller...your choice. EGT or Air/Fuel gauge is important, and boost gauge is almost essential. Anything I forgot for a basic setup guys?? Fill in the blanks....
16-Dec-2002 | 04:02 PM
#5
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,277
From: 43° 41' N 79° 38' W
Originally posted by bbarbulo
If you are even asking this question, you shouldn't be doing this...or any custom setup for that matter. Anyone who's got the knowledge to do a custom setup would not be asking this. Not trying to make you feel bad, I'm just trying to save you money. It's easy to throw the parts together, but whether it will fit, how driveable it will be, and how long it's gonna last are other considerations. Do yourself a favour, and stay away from it.
To answer your question, any turbo can physically be placed on any engine. Whether the flow characteristics of the turbo will match those of the given engine is a question for an engineer to figure out...not you. There are relatively complex mathematical equations that determine flow requirements/capacities. All you need to physically hook up a turbo is a exhaust manifold that on the one end will attach to your head, and on the other will accept the turbo exhaust flange. You will need a custom down pipe w/ O2 sensor bung, and you will need a filter for the turbo inlet, then some custom piping from the compressed air side to your intake (intercooling optional). Now, the turbo is physically mounted, but you have to run an oil line for the bearing...and an oil return line has to be tapped into your oilpan. Depending on your turbo, you may also need water lines to cool it. Then, you need a wastegate (internal or external), and perhaps a BOV (depending on boost levels). Ok, so now it will spin and compress air, but will it run? Well, not really....at a certain RPM, as boost builds, the ECU will determine that the MAP sensor has gone outside of it's parameters and is therefore messed up, so it will throw a code at you and run in "limp home" mode. So you have to fool the ECU into thinking the MAP sensor is reading what it expects it to read...so you need a circuit for that...that is assuming that your MAP sensor is even capable of reading boost...most are up to 7psi. After that, you need a new MAP. Then, once you've hidden the boost from the ECU, you have to somehow apply more fuel to feed the leaned out engine (detonation prone). So you can use a boost dependent fuel pressure riser like one from Vortec or Jackson Racing, and a good high volume high pressure pump. Give enough pressure, your injectors will stick wide open and will fail...this happens at about 80% duty cycle for most injectors...so you should really put in bigger injectors like those from a B16A. Also, you can place an additional injector in line to provide extra fuel with the air....and hook it up to a extra injector controller. Safe, easy way to do it. Also, you need to boost ignition output a little, and go to one range cooler spark plug. Retard timing as much as you can, then as you tune, turn it up slowly till you hear ping, then back off 1 degree. Use only high quality 94 octane fuel. A J&S safeguard would be a nice addition. You can use a manual or electronic boost controller...your choice. EGT or Air/Fuel gauge is important, and boost gauge is almost essential. Anything I forgot for a basic setup guys?? Fill in the blanks....
If you are even asking this question, you shouldn't be doing this...or any custom setup for that matter. Anyone who's got the knowledge to do a custom setup would not be asking this. Not trying to make you feel bad, I'm just trying to save you money. It's easy to throw the parts together, but whether it will fit, how driveable it will be, and how long it's gonna last are other considerations. Do yourself a favour, and stay away from it.
To answer your question, any turbo can physically be placed on any engine. Whether the flow characteristics of the turbo will match those of the given engine is a question for an engineer to figure out...not you. There are relatively complex mathematical equations that determine flow requirements/capacities. All you need to physically hook up a turbo is a exhaust manifold that on the one end will attach to your head, and on the other will accept the turbo exhaust flange. You will need a custom down pipe w/ O2 sensor bung, and you will need a filter for the turbo inlet, then some custom piping from the compressed air side to your intake (intercooling optional). Now, the turbo is physically mounted, but you have to run an oil line for the bearing...and an oil return line has to be tapped into your oilpan. Depending on your turbo, you may also need water lines to cool it. Then, you need a wastegate (internal or external), and perhaps a BOV (depending on boost levels). Ok, so now it will spin and compress air, but will it run? Well, not really....at a certain RPM, as boost builds, the ECU will determine that the MAP sensor has gone outside of it's parameters and is therefore messed up, so it will throw a code at you and run in "limp home" mode. So you have to fool the ECU into thinking the MAP sensor is reading what it expects it to read...so you need a circuit for that...that is assuming that your MAP sensor is even capable of reading boost...most are up to 7psi. After that, you need a new MAP. Then, once you've hidden the boost from the ECU, you have to somehow apply more fuel to feed the leaned out engine (detonation prone). So you can use a boost dependent fuel pressure riser like one from Vortec or Jackson Racing, and a good high volume high pressure pump. Give enough pressure, your injectors will stick wide open and will fail...this happens at about 80% duty cycle for most injectors...so you should really put in bigger injectors like those from a B16A. Also, you can place an additional injector in line to provide extra fuel with the air....and hook it up to a extra injector controller. Safe, easy way to do it. Also, you need to boost ignition output a little, and go to one range cooler spark plug. Retard timing as much as you can, then as you tune, turn it up slowly till you hear ping, then back off 1 degree. Use only high quality 94 octane fuel. A J&S safeguard would be a nice addition. You can use a manual or electronic boost controller...your choice. EGT or Air/Fuel gauge is important, and boost gauge is almost essential. Anything I forgot for a basic setup guys?? Fill in the blanks....
16-Dec-2002 | 04:25 PM
#6
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,990
From: No fixed address
Originally posted by bbarbulo
If you are even asking this question, you shouldn't be doing this...or any custom setup for that matter. Anyone who's got the knowledge to do a custom setup would not be asking this. Not trying to make you feel bad, I'm just trying to save you money. It's easy to throw the parts together, but whether it will fit, how driveable it will be, and how long it's gonna last are other considerations. Do yourself a favour, and stay away from it.
To answer your question, any turbo can physically be placed on any engine. Whether the flow characteristics of the turbo will match those of the given engine is a question for an engineer to figure out...not you. There are relatively complex mathematical equations that determine flow requirements/capacities. All you need to physically hook up a turbo is a exhaust manifold that on the one end will attach to your head, and on the other will accept the turbo exhaust flange. You will need a custom down pipe w/ O2 sensor bung, and you will need a filter for the turbo inlet, then some custom piping from the compressed air side to your intake (intercooling optional). Now, the turbo is physically mounted, but you have to run an oil line for the bearing...and an oil return line has to be tapped into your oilpan. Depending on your turbo, you may also need water lines to cool it. Then, you need a wastegate (internal or external), and perhaps a BOV (depending on boost levels). Ok, so now it will spin and compress air, but will it run? Well, not really....at a certain RPM, as boost builds, the ECU will determine that the MAP sensor has gone outside of it's parameters and is therefore messed up, so it will throw a code at you and run in "limp home" mode. So you have to fool the ECU into thinking the MAP sensor is reading what it expects it to read...so you need a circuit for that...that is assuming that your MAP sensor is even capable of reading boost...most are up to 7psi. After that, you need a new MAP. Then, once you've hidden the boost from the ECU, you have to somehow apply more fuel to feed the leaned out engine (detonation prone). So you can use a boost dependent fuel pressure riser like one from Vortec or Jackson Racing, and a good high volume high pressure pump. Give enough pressure, your injectors will stick wide open and will fail...this happens at about 80% duty cycle for most injectors...so you should really put in bigger injectors like those from a B16A. Also, you can place an additional injector in line to provide extra fuel with the air....and hook it up to a extra injector controller. Safe, easy way to do it. Also, you need to boost ignition output a little, and go to one range cooler spark plug. Retard timing as much as you can, then as you tune, turn it up slowly till you hear ping, then back off 1 degree. Use only high quality 94 octane fuel. A J&S safeguard would be a nice addition. You can use a manual or electronic boost controller...your choice. EGT or Air/Fuel gauge is important, and boost gauge is almost essential. Anything I forgot for a basic setup guys?? Fill in the blanks....
If you are even asking this question, you shouldn't be doing this...or any custom setup for that matter. Anyone who's got the knowledge to do a custom setup would not be asking this. Not trying to make you feel bad, I'm just trying to save you money. It's easy to throw the parts together, but whether it will fit, how driveable it will be, and how long it's gonna last are other considerations. Do yourself a favour, and stay away from it.
To answer your question, any turbo can physically be placed on any engine. Whether the flow characteristics of the turbo will match those of the given engine is a question for an engineer to figure out...not you. There are relatively complex mathematical equations that determine flow requirements/capacities. All you need to physically hook up a turbo is a exhaust manifold that on the one end will attach to your head, and on the other will accept the turbo exhaust flange. You will need a custom down pipe w/ O2 sensor bung, and you will need a filter for the turbo inlet, then some custom piping from the compressed air side to your intake (intercooling optional). Now, the turbo is physically mounted, but you have to run an oil line for the bearing...and an oil return line has to be tapped into your oilpan. Depending on your turbo, you may also need water lines to cool it. Then, you need a wastegate (internal or external), and perhaps a BOV (depending on boost levels). Ok, so now it will spin and compress air, but will it run? Well, not really....at a certain RPM, as boost builds, the ECU will determine that the MAP sensor has gone outside of it's parameters and is therefore messed up, so it will throw a code at you and run in "limp home" mode. So you have to fool the ECU into thinking the MAP sensor is reading what it expects it to read...so you need a circuit for that...that is assuming that your MAP sensor is even capable of reading boost...most are up to 7psi. After that, you need a new MAP. Then, once you've hidden the boost from the ECU, you have to somehow apply more fuel to feed the leaned out engine (detonation prone). So you can use a boost dependent fuel pressure riser like one from Vortec or Jackson Racing, and a good high volume high pressure pump. Give enough pressure, your injectors will stick wide open and will fail...this happens at about 80% duty cycle for most injectors...so you should really put in bigger injectors like those from a B16A. Also, you can place an additional injector in line to provide extra fuel with the air....and hook it up to a extra injector controller. Safe, easy way to do it. Also, you need to boost ignition output a little, and go to one range cooler spark plug. Retard timing as much as you can, then as you tune, turn it up slowly till you hear ping, then back off 1 degree. Use only high quality 94 octane fuel. A J&S safeguard would be a nice addition. You can use a manual or electronic boost controller...your choice. EGT or Air/Fuel gauge is important, and boost gauge is almost essential. Anything I forgot for a basic setup guys?? Fill in the blanks....
![[1sL0CiviC]'s Avatar](https://www.civicforumz.com/customavatars/avatar12481_1.gif){kind=avatar}
I'm not just a post *****
16-Dec-2002 | 05:34 PM
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,707
I was asking a friend about turbo on a si eg. For around 2000.
here what he said......
to turbo the si....I would recommend a 14b off a 1g talon...(can be had for 150)
your not going to get anything new (a whole set up) for 2000.
then you would need a mani which is pretty easy.. i havent looked much into sohc applications but i beleive you can use an hx manifold (modded to fit a turbo)..thats like super budget. you could also buy a new one that would work.
you would need piping., can get it at almost any shop(rt motorsports etc... yo uwould get u bends and fabricate it yourself)i would go for an i/c. supra tt i.c is pretty big and will work great. you coul duse a talon one but i would opt not to..they are kinda small.theres lots of i/c's to choose from.
you would need bigger injectors. again, go for some DSM 450's..cheap and they work.(you will need a resistor pack off an old honda ). I would opt to get a new walboro pump. they are like 300.
then to control the fuel i would order ZIP's SMC..this is the way to go on a budget! trust me.
oh yeah, a bov..you could use lots... a bosch one is cheap..a 1g talon(very nice sounding ..if that matters to you)
a used greddy can usually be found for 250.
a downpipe can be made easily by any muffler shop (or yourself if you can do that kinda thing)
and lastly a clutch.... you could probably keep the stock one ... i dont know how it would hold up to the new power...i would imagine it would be ok cause you wouldnt be making massive power..but id say at 6-10 psi on that set up.... with some decent tuning(which is pretty easy with the smc) anywhere from 150-200 whp...(this is an estimate).
i think the 14b is a great turbo for the price. you cant beat it. and it is much better than the t25 from a newer talon(which would cost more too). you would also need misc things like clamps, and some other stuff.(bolts etc)
here what he said......
to turbo the si....I would recommend a 14b off a 1g talon...(can be had for 150)
your not going to get anything new (a whole set up) for 2000.
then you would need a mani which is pretty easy.. i havent looked much into sohc applications but i beleive you can use an hx manifold (modded to fit a turbo)..thats like super budget. you could also buy a new one that would work.
you would need piping., can get it at almost any shop(rt motorsports etc... yo uwould get u bends and fabricate it yourself)i would go for an i/c. supra tt i.c is pretty big and will work great. you coul duse a talon one but i would opt not to..they are kinda small.theres lots of i/c's to choose from.
you would need bigger injectors. again, go for some DSM 450's..cheap and they work.(you will need a resistor pack off an old honda ). I would opt to get a new walboro pump. they are like 300.
then to control the fuel i would order ZIP's SMC..this is the way to go on a budget! trust me.
oh yeah, a bov..you could use lots... a bosch one is cheap..a 1g talon(very nice sounding ..if that matters to you)
a used greddy can usually be found for 250.
a downpipe can be made easily by any muffler shop (or yourself if you can do that kinda thing)
and lastly a clutch.... you could probably keep the stock one ... i dont know how it would hold up to the new power...i would imagine it would be ok cause you wouldnt be making massive power..but id say at 6-10 psi on that set up.... with some decent tuning(which is pretty easy with the smc) anywhere from 150-200 whp...(this is an estimate).
i think the 14b is a great turbo for the price. you cant beat it. and it is much better than the t25 from a newer talon(which would cost more too). you would also need misc things like clamps, and some other stuff.(bolts etc)
16-Dec-2002 | 06:11 PM
#10
banned
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 467
From: Under the hood
Originally posted by 94EG6HB
2 words...
Don't bother...
If your really hard headed go talk to Marco Passante at Magnus..
Or post this question in a DSM forum...
[window]www.magnusmotorsports.com[/window]
2 words...
Don't bother...
If your really hard headed go talk to Marco Passante at Magnus..
Or post this question in a DSM forum...
[window]www.magnusmotorsports.com[/window]
17-Dec-2002 | 08:41 AM
#12
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,277
From: 43° 41' N 79° 38' W
Originally posted by KS-R
I don't know... if anything.. I think Marco would just laugh... But.. Either Bbarbulo and Cee_Mon answers are more than enough info without me adding to it. Good work guys.
I don't know... if anything.. I think Marco would just laugh... But.. Either Bbarbulo and Cee_Mon answers are more than enough info without me adding to it. Good work guys.
But he's replacing turbo's all the time at his shop..
Could prolly get used 1G one from him for a song..
I know how he feels about Honda's...
17-Dec-2002 | 10:10 AM
#13
banned
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 467
From: Under the hood
Originally posted by 94EG6HB
I know how he feels about Honda's...
I know how he feels about Honda's...
Well.. turbo on a budget? Trust me.. a turbo project isn't something you want to build on a budget. You definitely don't want to go cheap on parts..It'll just cost you in the end...
As mentioned before in the previous replies... Any turbo can fit on any car.. just a matter of whether or not it'll work properly together. If you're on a budget, then you'll most likely have to scarifice the driveability of a properly matched turbo setup/combo.
If anything.. I would actually recommend a usd Talon turbo which would be the TD04G (sorry can't remember the code exactly) It's a fairly small turbo which would be perfect for spooling up a Civic motor.
Good Luck.
17-Dec-2002 | 12:23 PM
#14
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 156
From: Kitchener, Ontario
Originally posted by KS-R
That's why I said he'd probably just LAUGH.
Well.. turbo on a budget? Trust me.. a turbo project isn't something you want to build on a budget. You definitely don't want to go cheap on parts..It'll just cost you in the end...
As mentioned before in the previous replies... Any turbo can fit on any car.. just a matter of whether or not it'll work properly together. If you're on a budget, then you'll most likely have to scarifice the driveability of a properly matched turbo setup/combo.
If anything.. I would actually recommend a usd Talon turbo which would be the TD04G (sorry can't remember the code exactly) It's a fairly small turbo which would be perfect for spooling up a Civic motor.
Good Luck.
That's why I said he'd probably just LAUGH.
Well.. turbo on a budget? Trust me.. a turbo project isn't something you want to build on a budget. You definitely don't want to go cheap on parts..It'll just cost you in the end...
As mentioned before in the previous replies... Any turbo can fit on any car.. just a matter of whether or not it'll work properly together. If you're on a budget, then you'll most likely have to scarifice the driveability of a properly matched turbo setup/combo.
If anything.. I would actually recommend a usd Talon turbo which would be the TD04G (sorry can't remember the code exactly) It's a fairly small turbo which would be perfect for spooling up a Civic motor.
Good Luck.
17-Dec-2002 | 02:44 PM
#15
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 238
From: t.o.
bro for the dx engine i won't even bother spending that much money. And for that turbo, i have a friend who installed the mitsu turbo on his tiburon and it's giving him a lot of headeachs the boost keeps on jacking up from 7 up to 12 psi and he already replace his fuel pump and regulators twice. the turbo set up cause him roughly around $5000 or even more, so if i were u i'd rather pick up maybe a b16a2 or a b18c for that five grand and saves u the headaches
17-Dec-2002 | 05:09 PM
#17
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 156
From: Kitchener, Ontario
Originally posted by gcivic
bro for the dx engine i won't even bother spending that much money. And for that turbo, i have a friend who installed the mitsu turbo on his tiburon and it's giving him a lot of headeachs the boost keeps on jacking up from 7 up to 12 psi and he already replace his fuel pump and regulators twice. the turbo set up cause him roughly around $5000 or even more, so if i were u i'd rather pick up maybe a b16a2 or a b18c for that five grand and saves u the headaches
bro for the dx engine i won't even bother spending that much money. And for that turbo, i have a friend who installed the mitsu turbo on his tiburon and it's giving him a lot of headeachs the boost keeps on jacking up from 7 up to 12 psi and he already replace his fuel pump and regulators twice. the turbo set up cause him roughly around $5000 or even more, so if i were u i'd rather pick up maybe a b16a2 or a b18c for that five grand and saves u the headaches
Boost creep? That is likely not because of the fuel pump or regulators(?).
Next time tell your friend to invest his money until he gets a clue. Unless of course, you don't know what you are talking about.
17-Dec-2002 | 05:59 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 743
yup...i've been doing research and some guys on homemadeturbo.com have done this setup to their dx
the potential of a dx is something under 200whp
thats what i was told...
but you would have to have better pistons and rods but the dx's are crap..
so i was thinking of just starting and boosting low....maybe 6-7psi
and then build from there...
the turbo only cost 100....
and i have a shop to the piping so i'm cool....
probably get everything done with 500-1000$$$
i'm having a little hope on my engine again...haha...
the potential of a dx is something under 200whp
thats what i was told...
but you would have to have better pistons and rods but the dx's are crap..
so i was thinking of just starting and boosting low....maybe 6-7psi
and then build from there...
the turbo only cost 100....
and i have a shop to the piping so i'm cool....
probably get everything done with 500-1000$$$
i'm having a little hope on my engine again...haha...
17-Dec-2002 | 06:01 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 743
you see guys...i just want to build with the engine that is SUPPOSE to be in my car...
that is my goal...
if i were just to get another engine from an integra or crv or something...then why don't know just buy that car right??
well...thats what i think...i know some will disagree...
but i have my mind set on building on my civic engine..
i know it still has a little potential left...
i wanna see what i can make out of it..
thanks guys...
more info would be great...
that is my goal...
if i were just to get another engine from an integra or crv or something...then why don't know just buy that car right??
well...thats what i think...i know some will disagree...
but i have my mind set on building on my civic engine..
i know it still has a little potential left...
i wanna see what i can make out of it..
thanks guys...
more info would be great...
17-Dec-2002 | 07:44 PM
#20
streetXtreme, I'm doing mine (D16Y7) as an experiment, not to really look for more power. I just wanna see at what point I can blow it up. No one is gonna buy the engine from me even tough it's had synthetic oil and the greatest of care, so I might as well just blow it. Have you thought about fuel requirements and so on...turbo is easy....tuning and getting it right is tough. Don't worry about the hardware side of it now...worry about what you can do get prepare for the hardware. Like in tank pump, injectors, injector control, fuel pressure riser, ignition retard/advance, knock sensor, gauges (boost, A/F or EGT, and fuel pressure, oil temp), and so on. There is so much more to it than just the turbo. Any turbo can work for our tiny little engine. Smaller turbo = better city driveability and lower power range, big turbo = more high end flow and power, but mad lag. Lemme know how you plan to do fuel/ignition control, and how you're gonna hide boost from the ECU.
