suggestion of modding
#1
suggestion of modding
I'm wondering what should I mod to my car since summer is coming,
engine mod wise
currectly..I have
"Engine Bay only"
DC headers 4-1
B&M FPR
1.5 LSD transmission
DC short Ram intake
AEM pully
my budget is around $1500
suggestion?
engine mod wise
currectly..I have
"Engine Bay only"
DC headers 4-1
B&M FPR
1.5 LSD transmission
DC short Ram intake
AEM pully
my budget is around $1500
suggestion?
#6
Originally posted by spazio10
Ignition system, fule rail or TB upgrade maybe?
Ignition system, fule rail or TB upgrade maybe?
a) ign system... good for 400whp!
b) fuel rail... good for 500hp
c) without major mods a TB is a waste of $$$$
here are MY suggestions
remove your cylinder head, get a thinner head gasket, mill the head VERY SLIGHTLY, get CTR cams and gears! and get minor port and bowl work! if you have $$ elft over then 5 angle...
#10
too bad that turbo is a 15g, which is way too small for a b16. It would run out of steam at like 6500rpm.
I'd say do as themodfather says, headwork, itr/ctr cams and a thinner headgasket for a bump in compression to make those cams really shine.
I'd say do as themodfather says, headwork, itr/ctr cams and a thinner headgasket for a bump in compression to make those cams really shine.
#11
Pulley's are NOT a waste of money. You got something else that will underdrive your accesories and free up a few Hp?...Because a Mod only give's 1 or 2 hp does not mean its a waste. Like people say upgrading the ignition is a waste of money. Sure the stock one will handle big hp, but an MSD IS STILL BETTER!!!!!And No you can't tell me im wrong because its proven. A stock Honda ignition will not outperform an MSD. And Ive seen a civic with a fried distributor. Sure its rare, But an Ignition box will always work flawlessly AND have more spark energy. But FPR's are a waste of money. Your still suckign fuel with a stock fuel pump so having it suck harder at the engine side doesn't help much. Get a walboro 190lph in tank pump if you plan on installing REALLY big cams or plan on going FI in the futre. So all there is left to do is install some Cams and do some Headwork as mentioned by modfater and zeeman. Other than that you'll have to dive into the block and get High-Comp pistons and ligten your rotating assembly. which is big money. Try lightning your ride up, Coupe's are boats............lol
#12
well so fare the only good suggestion's were skunk 2 cams and ctr cams <--not really worth it....for me I'd get the following skunk stage 2 cams springs retainers thin head gasket and high comp valves to boost compression abit and a vafc....but that's out of your budget with install prices...
get skunk stage 1's cam gears and a vafc to tune. and while your at it get a thinner head gasket. dont' waste yoru time with any other mods. then maybe look into a hondata down the road and high compressin valves and maybe head mill to bump compression higher and hondata to tune it even more.
SOme classic retard mods in this tread walboro 190 pump lol that pump is good for abit over 300 hp...your stock one will do fine
Msd ignition lol how much hp are you gonna be putting out..? stock one is fine if yoru not turning 9500 or above rpm's or with massive hp
get skunk stage 1's cam gears and a vafc to tune. and while your at it get a thinner head gasket. dont' waste yoru time with any other mods. then maybe look into a hondata down the road and high compressin valves and maybe head mill to bump compression higher and hondata to tune it even more.
SOme classic retard mods in this tread walboro 190 pump lol that pump is good for abit over 300 hp...your stock one will do fine
Msd ignition lol how much hp are you gonna be putting out..? stock one is fine if yoru not turning 9500 or above rpm's or with massive hp
#13
So Cams, Applicable valvetrain mods(springs,cam gears, maybe even new valve's themselves) and a pully kit. Ya an MSD is probably overkill with minimum mods. but a friend of mine installed an MSD blaster coil on his B20.He said it felt a little more responsive after 4000RPM. And there pretty cheap. Either way Cam's and pulley kit will net the biggest gains for the money.. when its all said and done you should pay for some dyno time and get some one to tune your car. Guy's can reflash any Vtec computer to run sick with your mods.
#14
someone offers me a TypeR head for $1200 now
comes with everything meaning
ITR cams, ITR intake manifold etc...
and someone offers me Toda B cams and cam gears for $900
should i get the head with cams plus some extra money for valve springs and retainers or should i get those cams + cam gears
after those done, i will go on a dyno and tune up no matter what
btw, i have vafc already
comes with everything meaning
ITR cams, ITR intake manifold etc...
and someone offers me Toda B cams and cam gears for $900
should i get the head with cams plus some extra money for valve springs and retainers or should i get those cams + cam gears
after those done, i will go on a dyno and tune up no matter what
btw, i have vafc already
#15
take teh type r head..... the b cams slightly too aggressive for such a stock setup... those cams make power up HIGH....
i say take the type r head... mill it so it's flat, grab a nice 2 layer (or 1 layer if you are brave) and it woudl be best if you got some cam gears to go with the setup...
and if you sell your SiR head you will get some $$ back!!! many ls guys woudl kill for this head... !!!!
i say take the type r head... mill it so it's flat, grab a nice 2 layer (or 1 layer if you are brave) and it woudl be best if you got some cam gears to go with the setup...
and if you sell your SiR head you will get some $$ back!!! many ls guys woudl kill for this head... !!!!
#16
over the two i would grab the itr head.
But if you planned on gettin cams too i would just get headwork done to your head (port and polish, 3/5 angle valve job, mill it flat, or .020-.030" for a bump in compression) and buy some cams, valve springs, retainers and cam gears. For what you would pay for the itr head, which is a pr3 head just like your b16 but with factory porting, you could get a p'n'p, valve job and a mill.
For anything more than a stage 1 cam you need better valve springs and retainers, and more compression. If you don't want to mill the head you can, like mentioned before, just get a thinner head gasket.
But if you planned on gettin cams too i would just get headwork done to your head (port and polish, 3/5 angle valve job, mill it flat, or .020-.030" for a bump in compression) and buy some cams, valve springs, retainers and cam gears. For what you would pay for the itr head, which is a pr3 head just like your b16 but with factory porting, you could get a p'n'p, valve job and a mill.
For anything more than a stage 1 cam you need better valve springs and retainers, and more compression. If you don't want to mill the head you can, like mentioned before, just get a thinner head gasket.
#17
will i feel any difference of the car after i installed the head?
i don't mean a 160HP and a 500HP difference
what i mean is. is there going to be a obvious different of power gain? or just so little to a point that i won't feel it
i don't mean a 160HP and a 500HP difference
what i mean is. is there going to be a obvious different of power gain? or just so little to a point that i won't feel it
#18
meh depends on how much power you want....get the toda's high comp valves thin head gasket maybe mill the head springs retainers and clean the ports yourself.
OR if you jsut wnat a few extra ponies and oem reliability and rev limit then r head with a vafc to tune is fine but dont' expect massive hp.
OR if you jsut wnat a few extra ponies and oem reliability and rev limit then r head with a vafc to tune is fine but dont' expect massive hp.
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