Someone is selling a 5 Bolt conversion on CSi. Inquire to see if it comes with all the necessary components for a straight install and the condition.

Its going for $1800 w/ ITR rims, i think its missing rubber tho.
The white rims will look really good with the Plum, white interior too right? I would pick these up, but i'm doing my clutch,flywheel & tranny right now.

 

My service consultant called me back and here is what she said

front break pads + machine surfacing rotor (part+labour) = 258
break fluid flush + bleeding = 59.99
distributor cap + motor (i don't know what she is talking about on this one) = 85
clean throttle body and intake valve and emission stuff = 99.99
engine shampoo (clean engine bay) = 44.99

plus tax, i think everything is around 630 for this service package. The break pads alone will be 80 bucks. I can't bleed break fluid since I don't have equipments at home. I know dealers charges a lot... what do you guys think?

 

holy **** what a rip off!!!! damn mechanics
You can do all of that yourself easily especially washing out your engine bay, the engine degreaser bottle has steps on how to do so. Cap and rotor can be easily done yourself and the parts are like $30. The throttle body cleaning is simple also if u don't break any lines and u take your time and plug everything up nicely. Do your own brakes and just send the rotors to get machined and put them on yourself. Not sure but why did u wan't to bleed the brake lines for? I didn't entirely read the thread.

 

Ya I know they charge a lot... but I don't have the knowledge to do all these myself... I can read the Haynes book, but still, I don't understand some of the terms...

As for break fluid bleed, I haven't changed break fluid for 80000 km so it is time to flush and get new fluids.

 

for fuild bleed, near each brake you'll see a bolt with a little kind of pipe on it.. what you do is open that bolt and then have someone press the brake pedal all the way down.. brake fuild will pour out.. Tighten the bolt once the pouring is constant. Basically what your doing is letting the air out.. when there's air you'll see fuild come out then nothign then fuild.. do it until only constant fuild comes out..

Do this for all four sides. and ALWAYS make sure you don't run out of brake fuild as your bleeding them.. check the brake container and top it up as you go along each side.

throttle cleaning is easy.. take off the intake pipe.(that black thing) START the car.. spray cleaner into throttle body as your pressing the throttle..

cap and rotor are so cheap and easy to do.. 3 bolts on cap.. open it.. open rotor screw.. if you can't see rotor screw crank the engine real quick so you spin the rotor.. do this until u can see the screw.. take it off.. replace rotor and put screw back.. then move plug wires to new cap as they appear on the old one and put back on.. simple and cheap..


geeze if your really that worried, I'll do it for half price..

 

Honda prices are insane. If you want a good setup for everyday driving, go to crappy tire, buy rotors (eurorotor brand), semi metallic pads, honda brake fluid ( i use ford stuff... but thats a different story...) and you're set. Shouldnt be more than 150 bux for those parts.. do the labour yourself, and you'll be more than fine.

What i personally run on my daily driven/track events crx are brembo blanks up front and eurorotors in back.. pbr metalmasters all around and ford brake fluid. This setup works excellent for my vehicle and ran me about 3 bills for the parts. No bling bling rotors, no crazy conversions, and the car stops on a dime, everytime.

Proper rotor seasoning, pad bedding, and maintenance are key.

(btw... wanna stop faster????... get sticky rubber)

 

why dun u just get the SPOON caliper, i think someone is selling it with Project Mu rotors and project Mu pads(0~500C), asking for $1500obo.......and they are 4 bolts and will fit your hatch directly.
If the project Mu pads are not enough, get the HAWKS HP+, then for sure u will satisfy with your brake setup. Unless u r a FULL TIME Track RACER........

P.S. The SPOON caliper is 4 pots, just to remind u.

 

There is a set of SiR front brakes on ClubSi: http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...b=5&o=&fpart=1, or get a set of Brembo blanks and a high quality set of street pads.

 

Cablerat, that's a lot of information, thanks man. When I get my car back, I will give it a try. Boy you and Bruno sure know a lot of stuff.

So break fluid bleeding is basically step on the pedle and push the air out eh? Can you push out all the break fluids until there is no more and put in a new bottle?

I think for now, I will try to do the throttle cleaning (I assume they sale cleaning stuff at C.T.?), and that rotor stuff and break bleeding thingy.

Save money and get ITR break conversion...

 

Oh, as for engine shampoo, what do you have to cover up? The distrubitor and what else? And do you have to spray with pressure hose water or just regular strength spray will do the trick?

or just save the trouble, and pay 44.99 and let Honda do it for me?

 

Ok, the brake bleeding... not like that. Go to CT/Walmart/Carquest and pick up a brake bleeding reservior (or you could make your own, but it's cheap, and a lot easier this way). Start at the dr side front wheel. Attach the bleeding kit according to the instructions (put a little brake fluid in the little can and attach the hoses). Have an assistant press on the pedal, then you open the valve using either a flared nut wrench 10mm in size, or a box end wrench (10mm). You will see brake fluid shoot out of the line into the reservoir attached. Open it at leats 1/4 turn and wair 1-2 seconds. Then close the valve and have the assistant release the pedal. Then, do it again for about 4-5 times. Check level in m/c reservoir and top it up. If the fluid level in the m/c ever drops bellow the MIN mark, you have to start over. Actually, best way to put new fluid in would be to take out the fluid before you start anything using a turkey baster... as much as you can, and put fresh fluid, and start with the bleeding from there. It'll be less work. Be careful of spilling brake fluid on paint, it'll eat away at paint. If you do spill, make sure the m/c cap is closed tight, and hose it down with water. Brake fluid mixes with water and will wash off... no damage will occur if you just spill a little and wash it right away. So then, once the dr front wheel is done, pass side front is next, then pass side rear, and finally dr side rear. This is all described in Chilton, $17 at walmart.

 

Engine shampoo, cover the distribotor and air box/filter. Regular hose will work just fine unless your isht is real dirty. I find bottle brushes and toilet brushes are great for getting in the nooks and crannies. BTW... some engine shampoo sprays will attach aluminium and cause slight oxydation. I found this out the hard way I used Gunk engine cleaner and Castrol Super Clean. I suggest you try dishwashing soap in a bucket, mix it up and brush it on first .... if that doesn't do the trick to your satisfaction, step it up to a mild degreaser of your choice. Don't use easy-off oven cleaner, that **** is corrosive as heck.

 

Also there is a sequence to bleeding the brakes.

At least thats what the honda bible says...

 

As for the drum breaks, you don't have to do anything to them, do you? They don't use break fluids right? How do they work anyway?

As for engine shampoo, ya I think I need to use the stuff you recommended, that Castrol thingy cause I haven't washed mine since I got my car, and it looks really, really dirty...

Oh as for covering up the air filter (cone in this case) and distributor, what do you use to cover them up? A plastic bag and tie the opening with tape?

 

heheh yeah you could buy a brake bleeder kit.. I have one
But if u really need to do the poor mans way.. You do need to repeat it multiple times as bbarbulo said. Read the Haynes, it should explain it all properly with diagrams! it's hard to put it down in words sometimes..

With most engine shampoos they suggest warming up the engine a little before spraying.. not to hot or it'll all burn away instantly and not cold..

 

plastic bag to cover up the cone.. Stock airbox is pretty much waterproof already.. attach anyway you see fit, your goal is to prevent water from hitting it. It doesn't have to be like perfect air tight seal, but good enough!

 

96EG6HB, like I said, sequence is dr side front, pass front, pass rear, dr rear.

Nova, drums use two things... cable for the e-brake and hydraulic (brake fluid) for the normal brake. If you take a close look in the engine bay, in the middle of the firewall behind the throttle body, you will see an aluminium piece with 6 lines going to it. This is the valve that splits off pressure to front and rear lines. One line in, one line out for the master cylinder, and one line out for each wheel. 6 lines total. Your rear brakes use a wheel cylinder, which is a tiny little cylinder with two little pins that push out when the pedal is pressed... they push against two brake shoes that in turn contact a brake drum, which then stops you. Drums are not bad... they are lower maintenance than discs cuz they are not as open to the elements, but all the brake dust stays inside... Yeeee shall see Also, I don't know if you are gonna be removing the drums for inspection or the rotors... on the rotors you'll need an M6 or M8 bolt to help push the rotor from the hub... and be very careful removing the phillips screws from them. On the rear, just tap it lightly with a piece of 2x4 if you don't have a rubber mallet handy (which I assume you don't by the sounds of it).

 

Cablerat, for a n00b mechanic, I'd say not to warm it up... reason being... get too hot and the ex manifold will get too hot and succeptible to cracking. You're not trying to heat treat it, just wash it Besides, I imagine his car's not leaking, it's just road grime and mud and salt he's trying to wash off... in which case heat won't help it much. I'd say do it for sure on a cold engine, first thing in the morning this weekend.

 

^^^^

U DA MAN!

 

As soon as I get my car back (hopefully, they can fix the water leaking problem) I will then take my car to Brampton Chrysler because I had an accident about 2 months ago, they fixed the car and the paint is cracked already... gotta get that done asap. Mean while, I will read the books and maybe practice on my Dad's SI....