Wheels/rims questions
#21
The car is raised completely up on the coilovers and it doesnt rub as much now. I hope everyone understands it isnt the plastic part near the fender. It is the actual body of the car that is between the suspension and the engine bay. I think spacers would be fine and there only like $10 each or something. Only thing that worries me is rolling the fenders out enough so the tires dont hit the fender.
#22
Originally posted by gatherer
no
they change the stress loads on the car's suspension and if they are off (not the exact same width) they will cause issues...
however if you want to get some machined I recommend Concpets on wheels company Leitner Performance...
I also agree with ElectronBlue rubbing is a very serious issue...
let me see the problem at the meet tonight I'll bring my jack and stands and we can take a good look at options you have
no
they change the stress loads on the car's suspension and if they are off (not the exact same width) they will cause issues...
however if you want to get some machined I recommend Concpets on wheels company Leitner Performance...
I also agree with ElectronBlue rubbing is a very serious issue...
let me see the problem at the meet tonight I'll bring my jack and stands and we can take a good look at options you have
#24
Originally posted by scarlemthug
well the rims are 17 x 7.5 and im hearing the max you should do is 17 x 7 on a civic? So should I get 1 3mm spacer for them or should i get something custom machined?
well the rims are 17 x 7.5 and im hearing the max you should do is 17 x 7 on a civic? So should I get 1 3mm spacer for them or should i get something custom machined?
#27
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 163
From: Near roads with NO traffic travelling as fast as I can see
go with the spacers. 3mm-5mm would be good - anything more would definitely require the baseball bat. There will be no issues with stress due to wider offset (especially as everyone else runs 40-42mm offset). You still have a 205 width tire so rubbing is not a serious issue.
I know a guy with 30mm spacers on the front and 15mm on the back so don't worry about stress on the suspension components. Wider track is faster. Period.
I know a guy with 30mm spacers on the front and 15mm on the back so don't worry about stress on the suspension components. Wider track is faster. Period.
#29
where, in the middle or on the outside now Chris?
in the middle is the joint where the outter and inner subframe components (strut tower) join, and that's a sharp edge. I've seen cars that are dropped too low slice their tire wide open on this joint. I've seen others with that joint hammered flat (stupid idea!!!!!). If it's on the outside, then it's likely just the little clip in the middle, you can do without it.
in the middle is the joint where the outter and inner subframe components (strut tower) join, and that's a sharp edge. I've seen cars that are dropped too low slice their tire wide open on this joint. I've seen others with that joint hammered flat (stupid idea!!!!!). If it's on the outside, then it's likely just the little clip in the middle, you can do without it.
#31
on a side note I have rubber with my 15x7 inch rims with 205/50/15 tires and 35 mm offset on the rears... I found out it was the ****ty repair job autostyle did when they covered over the rust ... now I have to get out the grinder and fix it all...
#33
Originally posted by bbarbulo
gatherer... what are you talking about, rust where? did autostyle paint your car? pics pics pics
gatherer... what are you talking about, rust where? did autostyle paint your car? pics pics pics
ok here's what happen they took a replacement piece that covers over the rust and wleded that in the rust is still there behind the replacement metal.... what a ****ed up job
anyways this replacement piece reduces the size of the wheel well and causes 205/50/15's to rub going around turns on the autocross....I'll have to take a grinder to it to correct the issue...
I could go back to autostyle all pissed off but I don't want to miss any of this autocross season because of their incompenacy grrrr...
just remember boys and girls always check the work before the bumpers are reinstalled.....
as for where it's the rear quarters that normally rust out .....grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
#34
There is a line down the very middle of the tire that has been sliced on both sides. I am guessing it is the metal subframe thing you mentioned above B. Also if I try to take a turn at a moderate speed the wheels rub on the fenders, should I take out the fender liners and see if this helps?
Do you not recommend flattening out that sharp metal piece to avoid cutting the tires more? The car is all the way up on the coilovers unless im missing something and it can go up more somehow.
Do you not recommend flattening out that sharp metal piece to avoid cutting the tires more? The car is all the way up on the coilovers unless im missing something and it can go up more somehow.
#36
you have 205/40/17 and you're rubbing in the middle??? can't be if your car is raised all the way up. musta happened before if you had the car slammed. as for the rubbing, take out the coilover and get under the car with the wheel attached, then run the steering lock to lock and flex the susp all through the travel. then re-install coilovers and work with the knowledge you gained from that exercise.
#38
remove the spring/shock
on jackstands have the key in the ignition and have an assistant turn the wheel while you are under there flexing the susp. put an old steelie or something under the oil pan in addition to jackstands. you wanna be safe under there cuz if it falls off the jackstands it'll crush you good. The steelie doesnt have to be touching the oil pan, just has to be there "in case". Better to bust an oil pan and steelie and have some bruised ribs than have a flattened gatherer
on jackstands have the key in the ignition and have an assistant turn the wheel while you are under there flexing the susp. put an old steelie or something under the oil pan in addition to jackstands. you wanna be safe under there cuz if it falls off the jackstands it'll crush you good. The steelie doesnt have to be touching the oil pan, just has to be there "in case". Better to bust an oil pan and steelie and have some bruised ribs than have a flattened gatherer
#40
Originally posted by bbarbulo
remove the spring/shock
on jackstands have the key in the ignition and have an assistant turn the wheel while you are under there flexing the susp. put an old steelie or something under the oil pan in addition to jackstands. you wanna be safe under there cuz if it falls off the jackstands it'll crush you good. The steelie doesnt have to be touching the oil pan, just has to be there "in case". Better to bust an oil pan and steelie and have some bruised ribs than have a flattened gatherer
remove the spring/shock
on jackstands have the key in the ignition and have an assistant turn the wheel while you are under there flexing the susp. put an old steelie or something under the oil pan in addition to jackstands. you wanna be safe under there cuz if it falls off the jackstands it'll crush you good. The steelie doesnt have to be touching the oil pan, just has to be there "in case". Better to bust an oil pan and steelie and have some bruised ribs than have a flattened gatherer
anyways it's the rear I gotta worry about so no turning of steering wheel I hope it all comes apart ok for this checking.....
wish me luck I check tomorrow morning 7:30 am in my driveway the fun begins...