skunk 2 intake manifold?
#2
for boosted cars, it generally doesn't since you're overcoming pumping losses by using a compressor to force air in. so for the price of the IM, I'd spend the money elsewhere... depending on how much cylinder pressure you'll see, the stock ignition may need an upgrade, or spending the extra money on a really nice exhaust system (crucial for turbo cars), etc...
#3
The S2 IM can actually cause you to loose power. I bought mine used and before it got installed it was port matched. So much had to be taken off to make it smooth and match. There is no possible way it can make power the way it was. The air would be so turbulant instead of smooth flowing... and it also restricted a lot of air going into the engine due to the lack of matching in the ports with the head.
#4
FYI!
Skunk IM will loose you power all over the place.
I've seen stock Z6 IM's pushing over 400+hp.
We dyno tested a fully built Sohc with a ZC IM then with a Skunk2 IM, and there was power lost all over the place and it sucked!
If you care about engine bling then get it.
If you want to stay fuctional then spend your money somewhere'else!
Skunk IM will loose you power all over the place.
I've seen stock Z6 IM's pushing over 400+hp.
We dyno tested a fully built Sohc with a ZC IM then with a Skunk2 IM, and there was power lost all over the place and it sucked!
If you care about engine bling then get it.
If you want to stay fuctional then spend your money somewhere'else!
#5
FYI!
Skunk IM will loose you power all over the place.
I've seen stock Z6 IM's pushing over 400+hp.
We dyno tested a fully built Sohc with a ZC IM then with a Skunk2 IM, and there was power lost all over the place and it sucked!
If you care about engine bling then get it.
If you want to stay fuctional then spend your money somewhere'else!
Skunk IM will loose you power all over the place.
I've seen stock Z6 IM's pushing over 400+hp.
We dyno tested a fully built Sohc with a ZC IM then with a Skunk2 IM, and there was power lost all over the place and it sucked!
If you care about engine bling then get it.
If you want to stay fuctional then spend your money somewhere'else!
was it port matched and cleaned up inside?
#7
fpr and fuel rail both useless. you'd need them at over 400 hp, not before
why don't you tell us what you're planning and we'll go from there. like stock block built bottom end or totally stock bottom end or what??
for my money, I'd build the bottom end w/ eagle rods or shotpeened LS rods, and good forged pistons or vitara pistons, new OEM head gasket, arp studs, new oem oil pump, freshened up head (maybe cam if it's in the budget and a mild P and P), then I'd use a good quality turbo paired with an equal length header like lovefab or something... then a walbro pump, rc injectors, zeeman chipped ECU (spend the money and go to a dyno), then since the bottom end is built, I'd spend some coin on an ignition system to prevent spark deterioration from cylinder pressure, and I'd look into a 3 bar map sensor as well... cuz with a built bottom end you can really turn the boost up. tial wastegate and prolly turbosmart boost controller, and whatever BOV... then I'd do all stainless 3 inch exhaust or 2 and 3/4... whatever is a good fit, and i'd run a cat but prolly no resonator, just a nice muffler. then a decent wideband. of course, clutch is a must (Exedy or ACT), lightened flywheel, and if the money is there, a Quife LSD. oh and Hasport mounts. also, I'd likely do aluminium intercooler piping if you can afford it. oh ya, gauges, i like my greddy gauges but autometer would do just fine. run oil pressure and boost gauge at a minimum, oil temp would be nice as well
why don't you tell us what you're planning and we'll go from there. like stock block built bottom end or totally stock bottom end or what??
for my money, I'd build the bottom end w/ eagle rods or shotpeened LS rods, and good forged pistons or vitara pistons, new OEM head gasket, arp studs, new oem oil pump, freshened up head (maybe cam if it's in the budget and a mild P and P), then I'd use a good quality turbo paired with an equal length header like lovefab or something... then a walbro pump, rc injectors, zeeman chipped ECU (spend the money and go to a dyno), then since the bottom end is built, I'd spend some coin on an ignition system to prevent spark deterioration from cylinder pressure, and I'd look into a 3 bar map sensor as well... cuz with a built bottom end you can really turn the boost up. tial wastegate and prolly turbosmart boost controller, and whatever BOV... then I'd do all stainless 3 inch exhaust or 2 and 3/4... whatever is a good fit, and i'd run a cat but prolly no resonator, just a nice muffler. then a decent wideband. of course, clutch is a must (Exedy or ACT), lightened flywheel, and if the money is there, a Quife LSD. oh and Hasport mounts. also, I'd likely do aluminium intercooler piping if you can afford it. oh ya, gauges, i like my greddy gauges but autometer would do just fine. run oil pressure and boost gauge at a minimum, oil temp would be nice as well
#8
fully stock motor
this is what i plan on running(newbie):
t3/t4 to4e turbocharger .53 a/r
cast iron manifold
xs power waste gate
turbosmart bov
2.5'' stainless piping
centreforce dual friction cutch & lsd tranny
450cc injectors
bkr7e iridium ngk plugs
2 1/4 catback exhaust
thats it and then other miscellaneous stuff,
missin anything?
this is what i plan on running(newbie):
t3/t4 to4e turbocharger .53 a/r
cast iron manifold
xs power waste gate
turbosmart bov
2.5'' stainless piping
centreforce dual friction cutch & lsd tranny
450cc injectors
bkr7e iridium ngk plugs
2 1/4 catback exhaust
thats it and then other miscellaneous stuff,
missin anything?
Last edited by hil330; 23-Aug-2008 at 10:10 AM.
#9
fuel pump? gauges? i don't like centerforce clutches, if you drive hard they don't hold up on imports. they're fine for domestics for some reason.
what kinda intercooler?
seems alright, i dunno about the turbo, stock bottom end 1.6L, I'd prolly choose something smaller to spool up faster, but zeeman or chris_v2 or weirtech or vtec thunder or someone else might have more input on the turbo selection. i wouldn't say anything unless i saw efficiency graphs for the turbo.
the exhaust should be as free flowing as possible, the 2.5 inch charge piping might be too big, depending on what intercooler you run. 2.25 charge and 2.5 exhaust would make more sense.
but that being said, as you laid it out, it'll work just fine - like you could build it like that and you'd see a good bump in power that will keep you happy for a while. you'll need a manual boost controller at the least, unless the wastegate happens to have the ideal spring for your application. personally i used a tial w/ a 5 psi spring and adjusted the boost with a turbo xs HPMBC.
what kinda intercooler?
seems alright, i dunno about the turbo, stock bottom end 1.6L, I'd prolly choose something smaller to spool up faster, but zeeman or chris_v2 or weirtech or vtec thunder or someone else might have more input on the turbo selection. i wouldn't say anything unless i saw efficiency graphs for the turbo.
the exhaust should be as free flowing as possible, the 2.5 inch charge piping might be too big, depending on what intercooler you run. 2.25 charge and 2.5 exhaust would make more sense.
but that being said, as you laid it out, it'll work just fine - like you could build it like that and you'd see a good bump in power that will keep you happy for a while. you'll need a manual boost controller at the least, unless the wastegate happens to have the ideal spring for your application. personally i used a tial w/ a 5 psi spring and adjusted the boost with a turbo xs HPMBC.
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